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By popular demand, *blank stare at Ange* ;) I am writing this tutorial. By no means am I an expert in Cell Shading in Poser 4 and there are other ways to create similar styles. This is just the way I've figured out that works for me. Please, don't take it as anything other than an explanation of the way I've created my Anime style images.
What You Need:
Poser 4/Poser 4 Pro Pack
This tutorial (well that's just a DUH isn't it!?)
Used in this tutorial:
MayaX's Anime Doll Kit (available at Renderosity)
Rubio Dress 6 (available at Rubio's site)
Race Queen sleeves by Teppan (available at Teppan's site)
I won't discuss how to set up a scene as I'm assuming you already have a scene set up that you're going to use to walk through this tutorial. The point of this isn't to walk you through creating the scene, just making it look like the popular Anime style within Poser 4. (Note: I do not have Poser 5, please don't e-mail me and ask how to set up cell style in P5.)
Most preview images have been shrunk down. Most have larger images that accompany them (@1024×768) I have included the complete tutorial with all original graphics (screenshots @ 1024×768) in the Support File. The Support File is not necessary unless you want offline support or the fullsize screenshot images. Please download the Support File zip if you want the full size images.
If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to e-mail me or contact me at any of the sites I frequent (3D Commune, Renderosity, Poser Pros and DeviantArt), username: serpentis.
To get the Anime look, first we need to change the way we're viewing the scene. Change the view style to “Cartoon w/Line.” This gives us a somewhat cartoonish base to work with. Don't worry, the scene will look “jaggie” - we'll fix that later.
Delete all lights. Poser's default lights are EVIL. Trust me, you're better off without them. ;) (If you don't know how to delete lights, click on the light in the Light Control panel and then click the trash can icon. A box will pop up asking if you really want to delete the light, click yes.)
Create a new light (the star looking icon.) The light will load defaulted to a random color (one that's neither useful or tasteful, I assure you) and at a location somewhere on the upper left side of the light sphere. It will also load defaulted to a spot light. We want to change these settings! Open the Light Properties box (the light bulb) and change the type from Spot to Infinite. Also change the color of the light (the big color box) to a light grey color. (Note: You can use any color you want. I've used a light grey because I don't want any special effects or colors on this image. Feel free to play with colors as you wish.) After you've changed the light type and color, grab the light on the sphere and move it around to the front.
Create another new light. This time you want it to stay a spot light. Use the settings below. (Note: You may want to use a second fill light on the other side of the scene, but make the second spot a darker shade of grey so it doesn't cast so much light you don't get any shadowing.)
Now, to check the scene, we want to “render” to see how the lighting looks. However, if you use “Render/Render” the scene will render in regular 3D mode. You'll need to use “Render/Antialias Document”
As you can see, the infinite light source is in the image. (This was done on purpose to show a point, people, not an oops on my part.)
Open the Light Properties box for the infinite light once again and uncheck “Visible.” This doesn't make the light itself invisible, just the source outline. As previously stated, this was done on purpose to show you that the lights, do in fact, antialias with the rest of the image when left visible. Normally, you would just make them invisible when you first create them.
Click on anything other than the light (like a part of the models body) and re-antialias the image. You'll notice the light source is gone and your image looks good. :)
As you'll notice, the light set up we used for the full image is weak when doing a portrait. If you move the Main light around, you'll find you get stronger shadows and can define certain parts of the body like the collar bones. Best advice here: Play with settings! I know, not much help, but honestly, I stumbled on this by just playing with stuff I really hadn't thought of before.
You may want a larger image than what the original document size can handle. To do this, you will have to use the Animation setup/render options.
In the Animation Setup, make sure your Frame Width and Height mirror the document size Width and Height. In my example, my document size was 612×612 square, so I rendered my scene at 2500 square. However, if your document size is 300×400, you would have to use a 3:4 ratio for the larger size render. In this screen, the only thing we really need to worry about is the frame size.
After you set the Frame Width and Height, you'll want to “Make Movie…” in the Animation drop down menu.
Here is where we set up the “render.”
People have asked about the shiny material settings. They're quite simple but here are the settings I've used to achieve a latex/PVC type look. Feel free to play with the settings as you wish to create your own looks. :)
Just a few different light set-ups. Full screenshots so you can see the Light Control panel and where I have the lights set. I wish I would have saved the lights as I was playing, I would have posted them here. :(
And finally, the moment you've all been waiting for. *insert applause here please* The finished product that I created from creating this tutorial. *grinz*
'2004 serpentis/creative.chaos No parts of these images or text may be copied/redistributed without prior consent. e-mail with questions or comments.