Documentation Center artzone:pub:tutorials:paintshop

Adding make-up in Paint Shop Pro 7

2011-11-01T17:42:27+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Adding make-up in Paint Shop Pro 7

Author: LunaL

Tools Needed

Poser
Paintshop pro

Introduction

Super easy way to give your renders the make-up they deserve is you don`t have make-up already on your texture skins.

Step 1 - Smudge

Let`s clean up the mess!

Sometimes after a render, I find out that my characters hair might not be so perfect, or that the makeup is all wrong..and so on.

Sometimes I don`t bother fixing it in Poser and then render it all over again. That`s where I go into my Paint Shop Pro and change it all.

Oki, here we go. As you see below, the hair didn`t turn out the way it should. And the eyelashes looks all wrong..Let us do something about it.

Let us start with the hair. Find you “retouch tool” and choose “smudge” using these settings:

Size:6
Hardness:78
Opacity:60
Step:25
Density:70

Now, soft and easy push from the bottom up to the top of the forehead

Step 2 - Soften

When you are happy with the result, use the “retouch tool” again, and choose “soften”.

I used these settings:

Size:17
Hardness:70
Opacity:47
Step:15
Density:40

Step 3 - Clean up some hair

Looking better already*s*

Coming this far, I decide to remove some of the hair.

Step 4 - Stronger lashes

If you now look at her eyelashes, they are to soft, so we want to make them a little bit stronger but not to unnatural. Pick your brush tool;

Size:2
Hardness:0
Opacity:80
Step:25
Dencity:95

When you are happy, choose retouch; soften again, with the same settings as before..

And slow and easy soften the lashes. Mostly on the tip.

Step 5 - Adding eyeshadow

Now let us give her some eyeshadow. In this case I choose, green.

First make a new layer.

Find your brush tool with the color you want..and just make it smooth looking.

Then soften it all.

Now go to your layer palette..find the eyeshadow layer and change the Opacity.

I used “55”, cause I did not want the makeup to be to strong.

Step 6 - Adding rouge

Now on to the rouge. Same thing here, but usually with a different colour.

When all was done..this is how my image turned out.

Better watereffect in Paint Shop Pro 7

2011-11-01T17:42:27+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Better watereffect in Paint Shop Pro 7

Author: LunaL

Tools Needed

Poser 5
Psp7
Plug-ins

Introduction

Better watereffect in Paint Shop Pro 7

Step 1 - Get your render, and get Flaming Pear...

Now, let`s begin.

First thing you need to do is to download Flaming Pear.

You can get it : HERE

First up:Chose from your menu the lasso, free hand:

and make an outline where you want the water to go.

Step 2 - Apply settings and you're good to go!

No go to;Effects-plug-in filters-Flaming pear-Flood.

These are the settings I used.You can play around all you want, untill you get what u want.

And this is my finished product.

Converting PSD Files To Paint Shop Pro Brushes

2011-11-01T17:42:27+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Converting PSD Files To Paint Shop Pro Brushes

Author: BrokenWings

Tools Needed

Paint Shop Pro 8

Introduction

This is a very simple tutorial on how to convert PSD files to Jasc Paint Shop Pro Brushes.

Step 1 - GETTING STARTED

First thing you need to do is open a PSD file.

I am using 72 Brushes for Photoshop - eyebrows, eyelashes and pubic hair by Lisbeth. You can get them at www.renderosity.com

They were in abr format for PS7 and Lisbeth was kind enough to send me them in PSD format so I could convert and use them.

Step 2 - CONVERTING

The PSD format has 9 layers, 1 being a black background and the rest with the tips and a transparent background. Click on the top layer and open the eye so that it isn't invisible.

Make sure all the other layers are invisible except for the bottom one.

Using your selection tool, draw a rectangle around the first brush.

Go to edit/Copy then Edit/Paste As New Image. You will now have a transparent image.

Now you have to go to Adjust/Negative Image. Which will turn your brush tip black instead of white so you can see it.

Next go to Image/Greyscale

Now your brush is ready to save.

Step 3 - SAVING

To save your brush, go to File/Export/Custom Brush..

A screen called Create Brush Tip will pop up. Add your name of the brush, click OK and it is saved.

1 rule of Thumb with PSP8, a brush tip can not be any bigger then 500×500. If it is, Paint Shop Pro will tell you so you can resize just a little if needed.

Do step 2 and 3 on each tip and layer.

Step 4 - THE RESULTS

You can do this with anything you would like to make a brush tip out of as long as it is in PSD format or even psp format.

If you like the effects of some of the Photoshop Brushes, you can now use them in Paint Shop Pro too. Just before you buy the Photoshop Brushes, make sure the person will send you a copy of these brushes in PSD format so you can convert them for PSP.

Happy Brush Making!

Creating Comic Word Balloons Using Paint Shop Pro

2011-11-01T17:42:27+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Creating Comic Word Balloons Using Paint Shop Pro

Author: Dysfunkshunal

Tools Needed

* Paint Shop Pro

Introduction

Skill Level: Intermediate

Time Taken: 20-30 minutes

NOTE: This tutorial will specifically be making use of Jasc's Paint Shop Pro 7 (PSP is currently owned by Corel), however, the interface hasn't changed much and the principles described here can be used in earlier or later versions of the same program. Additionally, these techniques can be extrapolated and applied in Adobe Photoshop or any other photo editing software that contains these same functions.

Also, it should go without saying, that if you are going to be illustrating comics you should already have the story written. This is essential because you need to know how much text you'll be placing on each of your images so that it will fit properly. Poor planning will result in poor results, so be sure you have a solid story and know which text should appear on each frame so as to not ruin a good comic by cramming filled word balloons in odd places. Personally, I use Final Draft which is a screenwriting software to write my dialogue because it helps you craft stories quickly, but simply using Microsoft Word will work as well.

Let's get started…

Step 1 - OPEN YOUR IMAGE IN PAINT SHOP PRO

First, open your image up in Paint Shop Pro. Above is the image that I will be adding text to. I knew that my characters would be saying a lot in this panel, so I was sure to render the image with much headroom for the balloons. This is critical, and I can't stress enough how important it is when you render to know what will text will be in the frame you are rendering. It is also very useful to choose a camera angle that favors the first speaker as the person on the left. This is because we read left to right, and this way your word balloons will not have to overlap, which looks bad and can confuse the reader.

Step 2 - ADD TEXT

Click on the Text icon in the toolbar. In the Text Dialogue Box that opens, scroll through your fonts and choose a good looking comic font. If you do not have any, you can find thousands of free fonts online. I will be using the “Wild and Crazy” font. Select a 10 pt font, click the “Center Align” button, click the “Floating selection” radio button, and make sure that the “Antialias” checkbox is checked (see image).

Notice the text I typed. The female character is speaking first and is going to say more. However, she had a large chunk of text to speak, so I broke it up into sensible speech pauses. I put the word “suitor” on the second line so that they stack nicely as you'll see on the next page.

Lay the text wherever you want on the page. This particular piece of text is followed by more from the female, so I have chosen to lay it on the far left.

Step 3 - CREATE YOUR FIRST BALLOON

Next, select the Shape tool and choose Ellipse. Starting from the center of the text, draw an ellipse that covers all the text (Fig.1) and leave some extra room (HINT: Select CNTL+D to deselect the text if it is still selected). Then, use your Fill tool and fill the image with black (Fig.2). You will have filled over your text, but don't worry. Then, go to “Selections” and from the dropdown select “Modify” then “Contract”. Choose a value of 2. Then, select your Fill tool again and this time dump white in the balloon (Fig.3). Now, choose your Text tool once again. The text you previously typed should already be in the Text Dialogue Box. Drop it into the word balloon (again, use CNTL+D to deselect the balloon if it is currently selected). This will allow you to neatly lay the chunk of text directly in the center of the balloon (Fig.4).

You'll notice that there is no angle spouting from the balloon to indicate who is speaking the dialogue. That is because we have more text to add, and we'll add it to the next balloon.

Step 4 - ADD AN ADJOINING BALLOON

This balloon is the continuing text of the female character. Like I mentioned, large blocks of dialogue look better broken up into smaller balloons. So we will follow the same principles for her remaining dialogue, with a little change to add the angle so we know who is speaking.

First, see how I laid out the remaining text in the Text Dialogue Box (see image). You must decide how best to break up your text to “form” it so it best will fit into the balloon. The ellipse is narrow at both top and bottom, so it is wise to have the first line contain only a word or two, the next line more and so on and so forth, then doing the reverse as you near the end of the text. This takes some experimentation but is essential in making your balloons and text look their best.

Now, I placed the text at a short distance from the original balloon (Fig.1), keeping in mind that this text will also be in a balloon, and I only want the balloons to intersect just a bit (Fig.2). Make sure they overlap, so we can merge them later. Next, select your Lasso tool. In the Freehand Dialogue Box, select “Point to Point”. Hold down the Shift key and click inside the selected ellipse. Move your cursor to a point near the speaker's mouth, then click again. Now return the cursor to the inside of the ellipse a little distance from your original click, then double-click. You will have extended out your ellipse with a triangle that indicates who is speaking (Fig. 3).

Repeat the previous actions of filling the selected ellipse with black, contracting the ellipse by a value of 2, fill again with white, then re-add the proper text and center it (Fig. 4).

Step 5 - JOIN THE BALLOONS AS ONE

You will see the balloons are separated by a black line. To fix this, simply select your Paintbrush tool and a small value (around 5). Choose the stroke color as white and neatly paint out the black line. Now your balloons are as one (see image)!

Step 6 - REPEAT

Follow the same steps for any other speaking characters in your scene. In the finished frame (see image), I knew the male character had much to say so I broke his dialogue up into three separate, natural balloons. Doing this also allows you to manipulate the balloons so that they fit within your scene space.

SOME FINAL NOTES:

1. Use Common Sense:

Obviously, the balloon closest to the speaker's head should be the balloon that contains the speaking angle. Plan accordingly.

2. Don't Put Balloons Over Characters:

It is generally unacceptable practice to have a word balloon obscuring a character or any other important scene element. The word balloons are not meant to be a physical part of the scene, but rather just a device to move the story along.

3. Don't Clutter Your Balloons:

It is also generally unacceptable to have a word balloon that barely encapsulates your dialogue. Leave the dialogue with room to breathe, so to speak. Crowded balloons don't look right and draw attention away from your comic. If you find yourself needing to crowd a balloon because you are running out of space in the frame, you did not plan properly enough when rendering. Re-render the pic with more space for the dialogue.

4. Practice:

Good ballooning takes a little practice to know when/where to break up text chunks, the best positioning of text in the frame, the perfect centering of the dialogue, etc. If you are unsatisfied with the way your frame looks when finished, start over and do it differently. You'll be surprised how it will make the frame feel if it's redone properly.

Easy Lace with PSP8

2011-11-01T17:42:27+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Easy Lace with PSP8

Author: DTigerWoman

Tools Needed

Paint Shop Pro 8

Introduction

Making lace has never been easier! This tutorial will show you how to make lace using some of Paint Shop Pro's basic features.

Step 1 - Getting Started

Create a new image. I started with a 200×200 for the purpose of this tutorial with a black background.

*Note: your image will obviously need to be a lot bigger if you plan to use your results for a texture or transparency.

Next, create a new layer by clicking “Layers”, “New Raster Layer”, and click “Ok” on the pop up box “this will be your lace”.

The black background is just so you are able to see what you are doing.

Make sure your foreground color is white. Select the paint brush and draw something onto your image. I used the following settings for the paintbrush:

It doesn't have to be perfect and it doesn't have to look very good as you can see here.

Step 2 - The Kaleidoscope

Next click “Effects”, “Reflection Effects”, “Kaleidoscope”.

I used the following settings, but depending on what your little scribble may look like you may want to adjust the settings to get some kind of interesting pattern.

Step 3 - Pattern Effects

Now click “Effects”, “Reflection Effects”, “Pattern”.

I used the following settings because it makes my kaleidoscope pattern look a lot like lace. Your results will obviously be different depending on your original drawing and kaleidoscope settings.

Step 4 - The Results

This was my resulting image. With the lace on it's own layer you can now use it to texturize a clothing item or make a transparency map. Obviously some adjustments would need to be made so that it fits into your texture or transparency, but you should have a good idea how easy lace can be created in Paint Shop Pro!

Easy Painted Effect In PSP8

2011-11-01T17:42:27+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Easy Painted Effect In PSP8

Author: DTigerWoman

Tools Needed

Paint Shop Pro 8

Introduction

This is an easy postworking technique that will make your images appear to be painted, even if nothing was painted!

Step 1 - Getting Started

Open the image you wish to use.

Next click “Layers” “Duplicate” as shown above.

Step 2 - Blend Mode

Change the blend mode of your duplicated layer to “Color (Legacy)” by clicking “Layers” “Properties” as shown below.

*Note: You won't notice any change yet ;o)

Step 3 - Soft Light

Make your background layer active again.

Duplicate the background layer again.

Change the blend mode of this layer to “Soft Light”

Step 4 - Edge Effects

Still having your “Soft Light” layer active click “Effects” “Edge Effects” “Trace Contour” as shown here.

Step 5 - Overlay

Next make your Background layer active again. Duplicate this layer once more.

Click “Layers” “Arrange” “Move Up” to move it up one layer.

Change the properties of this layer to “Overlay” as shown here.

Step 6 - Layer Palette

You will now have 4 layers in your layer palette as shown here.

Step 7 - Softening

You may now merge your layers “Layers” “Merge” “Merge All (Flatten)”

If you have hair or clothing that has some rough edges you can easily fix this by using the soften tool. The size of the soften tool depends on the portion of the image you need to soften. The brush used for the soften tool is the “+Default” brush with different settings. For this image I used the following settings and lightly brushed over the area I needed to soften in the hair.

Step 8 - Congrats!

Congrats! You've completed this tutorial. I hope you enjoyed it and find it useful ;o)

Giving your render a glow effect using psp

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Giving your render a glow effect using psp

Author: LunaL

Tools Needed

Paintshop pro 7

Introduction

Quick way to give props in your render, like a wand, that special glow

Step 1 - Selecting

First thing you do is choose your lasso tool and select the area that you want to give more light.

Step 2 - The light

Now go to your menu:

Effect/Illumination effects/Lights.

I use these settings, but you can play around with it your self, to make the light the way you want it.

With my settings your image should look something like this:

Step 3 - Sunburst

No back to our toolbar.

Effects/Illumination effects/sunburst.

These are the settings I used:

And this is my final product. Nice, eh?

Making Rain With PSP8

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Making Rain With PSP8

Author: Captain Jack

Tools Needed

Paint Shop Pro 8

Introduction

This demonstrates a fairly simple method of adding rain to an image using Paint Shop Pro 8. It will also probably work in other versions and software, although I've only tried it with PSP8.

Step 1 - Cover the image

Add a new raster layer to the base image: Blend mode normal, opacity 35%.

Flood fill the new layer with a solid foreground color of light gray (R: 192, G: 192, and B: 192).

Step 2 - Make a mask reference

Create a new image that is the same dimensions as the original picture in 16 million colors.

Flood fill the new image in solid white.

(Note: if, at the end, your rain seems too large, undo everything and try again, making this new image double the size in both dimensions, then scale it by 50% after step 3.)

Step 3 - Create the mask pattern

Select Adjust - > Add/Remove Noise - > Add Noise: Random, 50%, Monochrome.

Select Adjust - > Blur - > Motion Blur: Angle of 220.0, strength of 30%.

Select Adjust - > Brightness and Contrast - > Threshold: 230.

Step 4 - Add the rain mask

In the original image, select Layers - > New Mask Layer - > From Image: Image created in step 2, Source luminance, Invert mask data.

Select Layers - > Merge - > Merge Down.

Step 5 - Adjust the edges of the rain

Click the visibility toggle (eye) in the layer palette for the background image to make it invisible.

Select Effects - > Edge Effects - > Enhance.

Click the visibility toggle on the background layer to make it visible again.

Step 6 - Wrap it up

Select Layers - > Merge - > Merge all (flatten).

Save your modified image.

Delete the image created in step 2, as it's no longer needed.

Step 7 - Variations

Adjust the transparency in step 1 to make the rain less/more visible.

Adjust the color in step 1 to lighten/darken the rain.

Adjust the angle in step 3 to change the rain direction.

Adjust the threshold in step 3 to make the rain larger/smaller (lower values make less rain).

To make the rain look thicker and more three dimensional, repeat the process making the second rain layer more transparent (step 1) and smaller (step 3 changing the threshold value).

To make the rain look brighter, like rain from a small cloud with the sun shining, stop at step 5, and repeat the process with a new rain layer, making the new rain layer about 90% opaque and using white as the color (step 1). At step 5 the second time, use the move tool to carefully move the new rain layer one or two pixels up and to the left. Drag the new rain layer so that it's between the background and the first rain layer, then finish the image from step 6.

Happy rain-making! :)

Making Seamless Plaid Tiles in Paint Shop Pro

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Making Seamless Plaid Tiles in Paint Shop Pro

Author: LilJayAngel

Tools Needed

Paint Shop Pro

Introduction

So you want to learn how to make a Seamless Tile in a Plaid Pattern. Well it's easy as pie. Best of all, you can make many different colors from just one tile. Join along and let me show you how.

Step 1 - Getting Started

Open a new image,

300 pixels x 300 pixels and transparent, as shown in the screenshot.

Step 2 - Choosing a Gradient

Click on the Flood Fill Tool.

In your materials palette, choose a gradient of your choice, using the settings as shown in the screenshot.

(Linear, Angle of 45, and repeats of 3 or more for a basic gradient).

Flood Fill your image with the Gradient.

Step 3 - Texturize It

Go to effects > texture effects > soft plastic.

Use the settings as shown in the screenshot, or play with it to find a setting you like.

Step 4 - Making it Plaid!

Now to make it plaid.

Click on Layers > Duplicate.

Then Click on Image > Mirror.

In your layer palette, slide the opacity of the top layer down to 50%.

Right click the top layer (in your layer palette),

Merge all > Flatten.

Save and your done!

Or did you want to make more colors without repeating all the steps? Proceed to Step 5.

Step 5 - How to make different colors from that one tile.

You may now use this tile to make different colors from. (Unfortunately this trick does not work this way in Paint Shop Pro X, but does in earlier versions.)

Click on Adjust > color balance > red/green/blue.

Roll the die (the button with the die on it),

until you get one you like.

Remember, if you turn on your eye lock,

you will see your original change to the current settings.

One you find a color you like, Save.

Recolor again, or start from beginning and use a different gradient blend of colors.

Good luck and happy PSPing.

Step 6 - The Finished Product

Original Tile

After applying color changes.

Paint on jewelry in Paint Shop Pro 7

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Paint on jewelry in Paint Shop Pro 7

Author: LunaL

Tools Needed

Poser
Paint Shop Pro 7

Introduction

Quick and easy way to paint in jewels by hand in Paint Shop Pro 7 after rendering

Step 1 - Adding sparkle

Now, this image looks kinda booring..with just the tiara as only jewel.

Let`s do something about that..Let`s paint it on.

Well, first I actually finish the Tiara by adding a sparkle tube.

Step 2 - Paint the jewels

Then I just use a paintbrush (both 1 and 2pixels)and I paint where I want my jewels to be.

Then go to:Effects;texture effects;sculpture.In this case I choose Silver.

Now play around with the parameters to get the resolte you want.

This is how mine turned out.

Step 3 - Add a tube

To add some more “spice” you can also add some jewelry tubes.

Here I have tried two.

A Pearl

And a yellow diamond(or something)

Painting Between Objects With PSP8

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Painting Between Objects With PSP8

Author: Captain Jack

Tools Needed

Paint Shop Pro 8 or other layer based paint program

Introduction

Painting elements into an image can be difficult if the painted parts need to go behind some of the elements of the scene. This tutorial describes a way to do that.

Step 1 - Load the image

In this example, we have the DAZ dragon stalking through the woods, looking for the hatchling dragon, who's taking a nap. We want to add some fiery smoke coming from the adult dragon's nostrils, but the tree is in the way. We need to paint between the tree and the background.

Step 2 - Copy the image layer

From the menu, select Layers - > Duplicate. This layer will be named “Copy of Background”.

In the layer palette, click the “eye” icon for the original Background layer to make it invisible.

Then, click on the copied layer to make it the current layer.

The image will still look the same at this point.

Step 3 - Erase Part of the Image

Select the eraser tool and carefully erase the image to the right of the tree. Make sure to keep all of the tree, but don't worry about erasing too much of the rest of the image. Erase everwhere that will be painted later.

Step 4 - Switch back to the original layer

In the layer palette, click the “eye” icon for the copied layer, which will make it invisible.

Click the “eye” icon for the original layer, which will make it visible again.

Click on the background layer to make it the current layer.

Step 5 - Paint the new elements

Add the painted parts to the image. In this example, select a round brush of 50 pixels diameter, 50% hardness, density of 50, and opacity of 50.

Click in the area where the nostrils would be, and further out. Do this with a light gray, then add some yellow and red.

Note that the tree is partly covered with the smoke.

Step 6 - Complete the image

Click the “eye” icon for the copied layer, making it visible. The smoke will be visible through the erased part of the upper layer, the tree in the copied layer covers up the smoke that we don't want to see, and the 3D character of the image is preserved.

From the menu, select Layers - > Merge - > Merge All to convert back to a single layer. Save the image and you're all set.

Poser Figure to PSP9 Tube

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Poser Figure to PSP9 Tube

Author: mommastacie

Tools Needed

Poser
Paint Shop Pro

Support Files

Poser-2-PSP_TubeTut.zip

Introduction

Tubing your Poser figures is easy when you learn the secret of Alpha Channels. The wonderful people at Curious Labs have designed Poser so that an Alpha Channel is included when saving as a .tif/.tiff file. This little addition makes a huge difference when you want to tube your figure for tags, web sets, and such.

Step 1 - Saving your character with an Alpha Channel

When your character is complete in Poser, Render it into a new window. My preferred settings are 1500px on the longest end, Anti-aliased, 200px resolution. Click File and Save As. Choose .Tif/TIFF as the file format. This adds the Alpha Channel you'll need later.

Step 2 - Preparing your image for tubing in PSP9

Open the image you just saved into PSP. Make sure your Layers Palette is open and right click on the Background Layer. Choose Promote Background Layer from the list. This will allow for the transparent background.

Step 3 - Removing the background

Click Selections, then Load/Save Selection. Choose Load Selection from Alpha Channel.

Make sure the name of your image is highlighted in the “Load from document” box and you should see a black and white image resembling the one you're tubing named Alpha Channel 1. Click Load. Go to Image and Crop to Selection (or use Shift + R). You shold now have your image sans background.

Step 4 - Saving your Tube

Depending on how you'll want to use the tube you're creating, you can save it two ways.

To save directly into Paint Shop Pro as a Tube, Click Image, Export, and Picture Tube. That's it. Your tube willbe in the list of Picture Tubes for you to use as you wish.

To save a tube so you can share it or use it in Paint Shop Pro 8 or below, click Image and Save As. Choose Paint Shop Pro Image. The suffix will show up as .pspimage. Change it to .psp and click options. Make sure the Compatibility option says Paint Shop Pro 5. That will make your image compatible with all versions of PSP. Make sure you add a 2nd layer with your copyright information if you're planning on sharing the .psp file or making it available for download.

That's all there is to it. Your Poser figures now have a new home.

Quick and Easy Postworking for PSP8

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Quick and Easy Postworking for PSP8

Author: DTigerWoman

Tools Needed

Paint Shop Pro 8

Introduction

This postworking technique is so simple anyone can do it! It uses some of the simple functions in Paint Shop Pro 8 and best of all there is no painting required!

Step 1 - Pick an Image

First you need an image to work with. You may use the image provided here if you need it for the purpose of this tutorial. This is just a simple render but can be used on any of your images.

Step 2 - Softening

Choose “Adjust”, “Softness”, “Soft Focus” as shown above.

Step 3 - Softening Settings

Use the settings shown here. If you feel the softness takes too much detail from your image you can play with the settings until you are happy. Click “Ok” when you get a nice result.

Step 4 - Duplicate the layer

Next duplicate the layer by clicking “Layers”, “Duplicate” as shown here.

Step 5 - Layer overlay

Next, on the right side of your screen in the layer palette change “Normal” to “Overlay”.

Step 6 - Layer opacity

Change the layer opacity to about 18%. You can use other properties to get some other interesting affects.

Step 7 - Results

Your resulting image “if you used the one provided” will look something like the image above. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

Lighting Effects in Paint Shop

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Lighting Effects in Paint Shop

Author: Malva

Support Files

masks.zip

Introduction

This tutorial will teach you, in 5 easy steps, how to create special lighting/shadow effects using Paint Shop Pro 7 (or any other image editor you may prefer)

Step 1 - getting started

Open Paint Shop and load the black and white mask you chose and two copies of your poser scene.

In one of your poser images, create a new layer (New Layer – New Raster Layer), set the Blend Mode to Multiply and Opacity to 70. Now paste the mask.

Step 2 - adjusting the mask-layer

Apply some blur on the mask layer (Effects - Blur - Blur More) and then select the Retouch Tool.

In the Retouch Options window, select Smudge and leave the box Sample Merged unchecked.

The Brush Settings are: Brush size 70, Opacity 63, Hardness 0, Density 100, Step 1.

Smugde the whole image, respecting the shape of the body. Make it so the shadow follow the curves and all the angles. (tip: arms and legs ask for round, soft shadows, while for the back you can leave it a bit more flat)

Save the image when you're done, just in case.

Step 3 - Masking

Copy the mask-layer you smudged and minimize the image – we'll get back to it later. Now let's work with the other render.

Go to Masks - New Mask - Hide All. Then again Masks - Edit and Masks - View Mask. Paste the mask you copied.

Step 4 - illumination

Go to Selections - From Mask, then Effects - Illumination Effects - Lights. For this image I chose preset Soft Light(upper right).

Change Direction to 235, Horizontal to 98, Vertical to -39, Cone Size to 86 and Asymmetry to 680.

Now delete the mask (Masks - Delete, answer No to the pop-up window).

Step 5 - putting everything together

Copy this new masked-image. Now go back to the other pic, merge (Layers - Merge - Merge All Flaten) and Crtl + L (Paste as New Layer).

Finally, go to the new layer Properties and set Blend Mode to Hard Light, lower the opacity a bit, if you want, and you're done.

You might want to play around with Blend Modes as well, to see what comes up.

Give your renders some real hair

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Give your renders some real hair

Author: Anonymous

Tools Needed

Paint Shop Pro 7

Step 1 - Select, copy and past

Let`s give your figure some real hair.

Find a picture with the hair you would like to use.

I used this one.

Now use your lasso tool;freehand.

And cut out the hair.then copy and past on as a new image.

Step 2 - Past on as new layer

Copy the hair again, and past is as a new layer onto your image.

Step 3 - Clean up

As you can see, we have to do some cleaning up.

Find your erase tool and remove the leftovers.

*It helps a lot to make your hair layer somewhat transparent.

Then take your retouch tool, set on soften..and soften the edges

on the outline of the hair.

On this image I also used the smudge tool to “repair”some places where

I removed some of the original hair.

And here is my image.

Step 4 - Prepare highlights

By selecting some parts of the hair and colorize it,

you can make some cool highlights.

Use your lasso tool and select the area that you want to highlight.

Then go to your menu on the top.

Step 5 - Making the highlights

You should now see your before and after picture.

As you can see on the right, the hole head turned blue.

Don`t worry about that..when you are happy with your highlights push OK

And now your highlights are within the stripes you made earlier not the hole head.

Step 6 - Adding tubes

If you want to do something different, you can add some tubes.

Free tubes can be found all over the web.

Easy way to find them is to use seach engines like google and altavista.

First go to your tubes menu.

Step 7 - The end..

I picked the white pearl first.

Then I added it to my hair using different sizes.

And here with a simple flower tube.

Making Backgrounds using Brushes in PSP

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Making Backgrounds using Brushes in PSP

Author: spiritwolf

Tools Needed

Paint Shop Pro or
Photoshop

Introduction

This tutorial shows you how to make nice backgrounds using Paint Shop Pro using brushes. The basic concepts of using an alpha channel to separate an image from the blank background, using multiple layers, and varying opacities and layer effects to add interest to the final image apply in Photoshop as well though the steps are a little different.

Step 1 - Preparation

Save your Poser or D|S render as a .PSD or .tif file then open it up in PSP. Use the Alpha Channel to remove the background.

Step 2 - Getting Started

Add a new layer, name it background and flood fill it with a color that complements your render. I usually use a light color but you can choose a dark color if you would like.

Step 3 - Arranging

Move the flood filled layer to the bottom -Menu: Layers/Arrange/Send to Bottom.

Add a new layer above this one name it Brushes 1. Make sure the new layer is selected.

Step 4 - Adding Brushes

Select your Paint Brush. Choice a brush that you would like to use on your background. This can be hearts, stars - anything you would like that complements your image. (The brushes will vary depending on what you have loaded in Paint Shop Pro.) For my first brush I have chosen one that is an star shape. You also want to either darken the color that you used for your background or choose another color. Stamp this on your background where you would like it to appear. Don't forget you can also adjust your layer's opacity to make the colors lighter or to blend in more.

Step 5 - Adding More Brushes

From here I just add various layers with different shaped brushes until I get something I like. Adjust the Opacity on different layers and brushes and experiment with different colors and effects. Don't forget, you can also use different Blend Modes for various effects. I ended with a total of 7 layers.

Step 6 - Adding Drop Shadow

I add a drop shadow to my render to make it stand out more.

Step 7 - Finishing Up

Last but not least I added a small border around the whole image to finish it up.

No More Squished Previews

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

No More Squished Previews

Author: endamist

Tools Needed

Paint shop pro 7 or higher
A finished full size image

Introduction

This tutorial was made to help you prepare your images for submission to sites that require preview images of a specific size. In this Tutorial we are going to select only a portion of our original image to use as a preview image of a specific size, and we are not going to squish our image to make it fit. DAZ gallery submission requires a preview image of 200×260 so that is the size that we are going to make our preview image here. You will need paint shop pro 7 or higher. It may also work with other paint programs as well.

Step 1 - Find the selection tool

You will need to open your finished image. I decided to use a sample image of V3 wearing the V3 tunic and a texture that I made.

You will need to use the selection tool which you can find on your tool bar. It appears as a dotted square.

Step 2 - Making the selection

Now that you have the selection tool you need to use it to select a portion of the image to use as a preview.

You can choose any area you like best but for this tutorial I'm going to select an area that includes the face of the character.

To do this you will need to move your mouse over the image to a point that you wish to start your selection. Once there hold down the left mouse button and drag the mouse to select your area. While you continue to hold down the mouse button look at the bottom left of the Paint Shop Pro window. Here is where you will see the current position of your cursor and the selections size.

The first two numbers tell you where you started your selection, the second set tells you where your cursor is now and the last set tells you the size your selection is.

Continue to hold down the left mouse button and move the mouse until your selection size reads 200×260. It might take a little practice keeping steady on a single point once you have it, but as soon as you are satisfied that you have the size you want, you can let go of the button.

Now you have an area selected with a flashing dotted line around it that should be 200×260 if you didn't move when you let go of the mouse button.

You will not be able to see the size of your selection in the lower left once you let go of the button.

Step 3 - Cropping

Now you need to crop the image to your selection. On the menu bar click on image. In the drop down menu that appears you will find crop to selection. You can also simply use Shift+R to crop your image.

Once you have your image cropped you can check its size by looking at the bottom right portion of the Paint Shop Pro window. There it will tell you the image size, number of colors and file size. Your image should read 200x260x16 Million and how many Kbytes the file consists of. My sample image below reads the size of image I used to provide you with an example. If your image size is incorrect simply hit the undo key on your menu bar twice and repeat step 2 until it is correct.

Step 4 - Save your new preview image

Now you can save your new preview image but be careful not to save it with the same name as your original image or you will overwrite it.

On the menu bar at the top of the window click file and chose Save as from the drop-down menu. Now you can chose a different name from your original image. Select the proper file type and click Save. You now have a preview without resorting to squishing in order to have the correct size.

Thank you for reading my simple tutorial.

Paint Shop Pro Tutorials

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Paint Shop Pro Tutorials

DAZ 3D encourages you to upload your tutorials here to the ArtZone Wiki so that they have a permanent home and are hosted on our servers. If you do upload your tutorials, please add them to the appropriate software category and create sub-pages/categories as needed. If, for some reason, you do not want to host your tutorials here, please add links to external tutorials in the appropriate categories as well.