Documentation Center artzone:pub:tutorials:photoshop

Create a custom Photoshop CS brush

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Create a custom Photoshop CS brush

Author: taniab

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Introduction

This tutorial shows how to create different types of custom Photoshop brushes. I've used Photoshop CS, but it should work with Photoshop from version 7 and up. I suppose you are familiar with Photoshop tools and menu. In the following something like Edit > Copy means: “open the Edit menu and click on the Copy command”.

Step 1 - Our first brush

Open Photoshop and create a new document abut 100×100 pixels, background color white or transparent.

Click on the brushes palette and choose a small brush (hard or soft depends if you want a new soft edged or hard edged brush), black color and start drawing. I want to create a new brush with an irregular tip, so I make something like in figure 2.

When you are done, go to the menu Edit > Define brush preset ….

A dialog appears showing a thumbnail of the new brush with its size and asking for a name: type whatever you want and click OK. Your new brush is at the bottom of the brush palette and it's already selected as a new brush tip.

You can create a new document (bigger than 100×100, for example 500×500) and try your new brush with different color and/or different opacity and flow settings to see if you like or if it needs some adjusting.

Step 2 - Creating a custom brush set

Now there's some work to do here: we want to create our own set of custom brushes, so we need to get rid of all the currently loaded brushes. You have to manually do this for each brush: Right-click (Ctrl+click for Mac) on each brush, except the one we have just created, and select “Delete” from the popup menu. Click on OK in the dialog that appears.

When you are going to create a new brush set, I suggest you load a set that contains a few number of brushes before starting. Or you can create a custom brush set with only one brush and use it every time you need to create a custom set (you can't' have an empty brush palette in Photoshop).

When you are done deleting all the brushes you are ready to save your set:

when you select the Paintbrush tool, the options bar changes to show all the options for that tool. Click on the little black arrow next to the brush tip (upper left corner of screen: far left in the options bar): a palette showing all available brushes, plus some options for them becomes visible. Click on the little black arrow on this new palette and you see a menu with different options that allows you to manage your brushes: different view options, load brushes, save brushes, etc. plus some preset brushes that come with Photoshop (at the bottom of the menu). This is where we will go to save our new custom brushes.

Click on “Save brushes …” a dialog appears asking for a name and location for the set. I'm going to spend a few words about this.

Photoshop brushes are usually located in the folder Presets\Brushes located in the main Adobe Photoshop folder: all brush sets saved here will be immediately accessible from the palette menu.

I usually save my custom brushes in a different folder (for example MyDocuments\MyPhotoshopBrushes\Category): this way I don't fill up the Photoshop folder and I always keep track of custom brushes. And I follow the same criteria for downloaded brushes: I keep them organized by creator and category (flowers, grunge, etc.) along with a copy of the readme to be always sure of the license of use.

It's up to you were you want to save: if you like to have quick access from the brush palette menu, save in the Adobe Photoshop\Presets\Brushes folder. Or choose a different location: in this case you can load customs sets by selecting “Load brushes …” from the menu and locating your brushes in the “Load” dialog.

Now, back to our set: choose a name for your set (note that Photoshop uses the .abr suffix for brushes: keep it), choose a location and click “save”.

Now we can go on and add more brushes to this custom set.

Step 3 - Creating a brush from a photo

First we need a nice photo, I got one of a flower (from imageafter). I've used the magnetic lasso tool to select only the flower (I could use the magnetic lasso because there's enough contrast between the main subject and the background). Then Selection > Feather about 5 pixels (see what's best for you) to get a soft edge around the flower. Selection > Invert to select the background and finally hit Delete key to remove it. Be sure to have the background color set to white before deleting, in case you don't hit D on the keyboard to reset the default Photoshop foreground and background colors.

Then I zoomed in the image and used the eraser tool to remove any leftover spots around the contour of the flower.

Since our image is too big to create a brush we need to resize it. In this case I want a quite big brush, so I'm going to Edit > Image size and resize to around 200-300 width, checking “keep proportions” so it won't be distorted.

Next step is to convert the image in grayscale and adjust brightness/contrast (both are found in the Image menu and submenus). Here's is what we get:

It's time to save our new brush, following what we did in step one: Edit > Define brush preset…. give a name and save.

Step 4 - Creating a brush from a custom shape

Here is just another example of a custom brush. I'll go quickly here.

We will use one of the custom shapes that come with Photoshop and apply a layer style to it, before defining our custom brush.

Create a new image 300×300, choose the custom shape tool, choose heart and draw your shape.

Now this is what I did:

On the layer palette Right-click (ctrl-click if mac) on the shape layer and choose “rasterize layer”.

Ctrl+click (Command-click if mac) on the same layer to load the shape as a selection.

Choose a gradient you like and fill the heart.

Apply a layer style from the layers menu: I have created an emboss effect.

Turn the image to grayscale and Edit > Define brush preset.

Here's a few examples with our new brush: I have changed color, size and opacity settings to create different effects.

Step 5 - More options

Once you have created your custom brushes, you can use them as starting point for new ones. For example you can create different sizes of the same brush and save them so you can access them quickly: just select the brush, change the size and save as explained below.

But you can adjust even more options for your brushes. If you click in the brush palette (far right of the options bar) you see a lot of options for you brushes with different settings: just choose the settings you need and save as a new brush. I'll show just one, the scattering option, as an example. NOTE: If you have changed the default Photoshop interface you may have this palette located somewhere else.

Choose one of the brushes, I'll use the hearth, click on the brush palette in the option bar to open it and select “scattering”. Play with the settings.

When you are done save your brush: click on the brush selection menu and then on the little square under the black arrow: this saves a preset brush with all the options selected on the brush palette.

Create a new document and try your new brush: all this hearts were created with two mouse clicks!

Step 6 - Conclusion

As you can see there are a lot of ways to create custom brushes and different settings to try out. It would be too long to explain them all, so I've tried to give you some starting points. Now go, experiment and have fun!

Create a custom Photoshop CS brush

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Create a custom Photoshop CS brush

Author: taniab

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Introduction

Step 1 - Our first brush

Open Photoshop and create a new document abut 100×100 pixels, background color white or transparent.

When you are done, go to the menu Edit > Define brush preset ….

Step 2 - Creating a custom brush set

When you are done deleting all the brushes you are ready to save your set:

Click on “Save brushes …” a dialog appears asking for a name and location for the set. I'm going to spend a few words about this.

Photoshop brushes are usually located in the folder Presets\Brushes located in the main Adobe Photoshop folder: all brush sets saved here will be immediately accessible from the palette menu.

Now, back to our set: choose a name for your set (note that Photoshop uses the .abr suffix for brushes: keep it), choose a location and click “save”.

Now we can go on and add more brushes to this custom set.

Step 3 - Creating a brush from a photo

Then I zoomed in the image and used the eraser tool to remove any leftover spots around the contour of the flower.

Next step is to convert the image in grayscale and adjust brightness/contrast (both are found in the Image menu and submenus). Here's is what we get:

It's time to save our new brush, following what we did in step one: Edit > Define brush preset…. give a name and save.

Step 4 - Creating a brush from a custom shape

Here is just another example of a custom brush. I'll go quickly here.

We will use one of the custom shapes that come with Photoshop and apply a layer style to it, before defining our custom brush.

Create a new image 300×300, choose the custom shape tool, choose heart and draw your shape.

Now this is what I did:

On the layer palette Right-click (ctrl-click if mac) on the shape layer and choose “rasterize layer”.

Ctrl+click (Command-click if mac) on the same layer to load the shape as a selection.

Choose a gradient you like and fill the heart.

Apply a layer style from the layers menu: I have created an emboss effect.

Turn the image to grayscale and Edit > Define brush preset.

Here's a few examples with our new brush: I have changed color, size and opacity settings to create different effects.

Step 5 - More options

Choose one of the brushes, I'll use the hearth, click on the brush palette in the option bar to open it and select “scattering”. Play with the settings.

When you are done save your brush: click on the brush selection menu and then on the little square under the black arrow: this saves a preset brush with all the options selected on the brush palette.

Create a new document and try your new brush: all this hearts were created with two mouse clicks!

Step 6 - Conclusion

Create a realistic stamp in Photoshop.

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Create a realistic stamp in Photoshop.

Author: Narnia

Tools Needed

Photoshop 7.0.1 or higher
Provided Custom Shape Pack

Support Files

Introduction

In this tutorial I am going to show you how easy and simple it is to create a realistic stamp in Photoshop. You could use this in your renders or in any other image project that requires stamps on things. The great part is that you can use any image you like!

Please Note: I am assuming that you know how to install the provided custom stamp shape in Photoshop. If not, then please refer to your Photoshop guide from Adobe on how to install this into your edition/version of Photoshop. Also some steps in this tutorial assume a basic knowledge of Photoshop and how to apply layer styles.

Step 1 - Create a New Document

The first step is to create a new document. Here we will simply use the Photoshop default size.

Step 2 - Create the Stamp Boarder

Using the Custom Shape Tool, select the stamp shape in the shape palette. Form the shape in the new document/canvas. Remember to hold the shift key down during the sizing of the shape to fix the aspect ratio.

Step 3 - Create the cut out for the picture.

Now using the rectangular marquee tool, make a selection over the stamp shape about the same ratio as the boarder, but smaller in scale. This will be the cut out. After you have positioned the selection, go to the select menu and select, Select - > Inverse. This will inverse the selection.

Now simply add a layer mask to the layer to 'cut out' the center of the stamp. This is where the picture will be put.

Step 4 - Add some depth to the stamp.

This is a simply step. First make sure you change the color of the boarder to white. Since this a vector shape, double click the color icon on the layer to do so.

Then simply add a drop shadow and bevel to the stamp border layer.

I used a drop shadow with a distance of 3 and a size of 3. Plus a bevel using a style of 'Inner Bevel', a Technique of 'Smooth', and a size of 2. Also remember to set the bevel direction 'up' so that it looks raised.

Step 5 - Add the picture.

This is a simple step also. All you need to do is cut and paste an image to want to use into the stamp document.

Then, using the rectangular marquee tool, make a selection over the stamp shape but while the picture layer is selected in the layers palette. After you have positioned the selection, go to the select menu and select, Select - > Inverse. This will inverse the selection.

While the inverted selection is still active press delete, this will crop the picture to fit into the stamp's boarder limits.

Step 6 - Add Text

If you want it to look real, simply add some text. I have added DAZ and 39 for the price of the stamp. Be creative, you're the stamp designer!

Step 7 - Stamp is Done!

And pesto! You are done!

Creating a Reflected Picture in Photoshop.

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Creating a Reflected Picture in Photoshop.

Author: Narnia

Tools Needed

Photoshop 7.0.1 or higher
An Image of your Choice (Supported by Photoshop)

Introduction

This tutorial will help you create the cool reflection look used in Mac OS X and other website using Photoshop 7.0 or higher. (I am using Photoshop 7.0, but any higher version will work. Photoshop 5.0 to 6.0 may work also, but may be slightly different in interface.) I am also assuming that you have a basic working knowledge of Photoshop.

Step 1 - Open the file.

Open the file that you want to create the effect in.

To do so, go to File - > Open…

Step 2 - Copy the Picture to a new blank image.

Go to File - > New…

Change the Width and Height settings to pixel mode and set them to a setting that is a few pixels wider than that of the original and more than double the height.

In this case we are using: 1100×1600 since the original was 1024×768.

Step 3 - Paste the Picture into the new blank image.

Paste the Picture into the new blank image.

Now paste the picture into the new blank image and move it towards the top. Basically, you want it above the middle of the image canvas. (The blank image.)

Step 4 - Duplicate the Image Layer.

Duplicate the image by dragging the layer that the image is on in the Layer Palette over the new layer icon. This will create a copy over the original layer.

Step 5 - Flip that Image.

Flip that Image.

Now, Flip the copy image by making sure the copy image layer is selected in the Layer Palette. Then go to Edit - > Transform - > Flip Vertical.

This will flip the image on the selected layer. This will be the reflection.

Step 6 - Move that Image.

Now with the move tool selected and the reflection layer still selected in the Layers Palette, using the down arrow key, move/nudge the reflection layer down right below the original image.

It should look like this.

Step 7 - Make it Reflect. Part 1.

Now is where we make it look like a reflection. If the reflection layer isn't already selected in the layer palette, then make sure it is. Click on the add layer mask button on the Layers Palette. This will create a layer mask on the layer that is acting as the image's reflection.

Now click on the mask for the reflection layer to make sure that the layer mask is selection for modification.

Step 8 - Make it Reflect. Part 2.

Using the gradient tool set to black to white preset, click and drag somewhere in the middle of the image towards the top of the flipped reflection layer. This might take some undoes and redoes to get it to look just right, but play with it. (See picture for a guide.)

Start around the bottom of the arrow and end around the top.

Then change the opacity setting of the reflection layer to between 25-50% to make it look like a reflection!

Step 9 - Final Touch.

For an extra final touch, add a black solid color layer! And you're done. Just remember to save your creation.

Custom Photoshop Brushes

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Custom Photoshop Brushes

Author: serpentis

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Introduction

Creating your own custom Photoshop brushes is easy and can be quite useful. You can create everything from custom shapes to your signature as a brush. Custom brushes can help with everything from texturing to watermarking to adding multiples of the same element to your images.

What You Need:

Photoshop

Used in this tutorial:

Photoshop

Snowflake ' Dover

This image was written in Photoshop 7, but can translate to most Photoshop versions.

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to e-mail me or contact me at any of the sites I frequent (3D Commune, Renderosity, Poser Pros and DeviantArt), username: serpentis.

(Snowflake image ' Dover Publishing from the book: Big Book of Graphic Designs and Devices. Used with permission as per Dovers terms of use.)

Step 1 - Getting Started

You can start with any image you desire to make your brush. I've chosen a snowflake. My image just happened to be a black and white scan, however, if your image is not black and white, you'll want to desaturate your image to make it black and white (Image/Adjust/Desaturate.) If your image comes in as a locked Background layer double click on the Background layer to create it's own layer (Layer 0)

Step 2 - Black and White

If your image is like mine (only black and white) or if it has a white background, separating the image from the background will be easy. For an image like mine with solid black lines, you can select the black with the magic wand. If your image has a white background you can select the background with the magic wand.

Step 3 - Layers

Notice the “marching ants” around the selection. This tells you what's selected. If you've selected the black part of your image, you're going to need to invert the selection (Selection/Invert or Ctrl+Alt-Shift-I) This selects the background and now you can hit the Delete key to delete the background. You should now have the image you want with no background.

If your image has some “jaggies” around the edges, you'll want to take care of those before you create your brush. One of the easiest ways is to select the background, go to Select/Feather and feather the selection 1 or 2 pixels then delete. It smoothes out the edges pretty well.

Step 4 - Making the Brush

Go to Edit/Define Brush and create your new brush. This will bring up a naming box, name your brush whatever you'd like so you'll remember it later when you want to use it. Notice under your image, the box tells you how big your brush is. This is important when you're creating multiple brushes in various sizes.

Step 5 - Finding your brush

Your new brush will be automatically saved in your Brush Palette. If you have other brushes loaded, it will be at the very bottom of the list. If you're creating a new set you'll want to right click on each of the brushes you have loaded and delete them until only your new brushes are loaded.

Step 6 - Saving

If you have all of your brushes created, you may want to save them to a Photoshop Brush file so you can load them later when you want them or distribute them to other Photoshop users. Click on the little arrow next to “Brushes” and go to Save Brushes… Save them in a location you'll remember with a descriptive name.

Easy Fog in Adobe Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Easy Fog in Adobe Photoshop

Author: pamela-anne

Tools Needed

Adobe Photoshop
Or Paint Shop Pro

Introduction

You don't need fancy plug-ins to create fog, just a few simple steps. The steps in this tutorial are easy to follow and don't require advanced knowledge of Photoshop. The best part is that you already have all the tools necessary standard in Adobe Photoshop and Paint Shop Pro! I'm using my image 'Life, Love, and Happiness' because a few people asked me how I did the fog effect. I've changed the background to black, so you can see my steps more clearly.

Step 1 - Open your image and create a new layer for the fog.

Open your image in Photoshop and create a new layer on top of it.

(Click the little square with the corner folded back, or click 'Layer' on the file menu, select 'New' from the menu, and 'Layer' from the submenu)

Step 2 - Paint the shapes that will become your fog

Choose a brush of fairly good size, between 60-120 pixels. (Use a larger brush for larger images, and smaller brushes for smaller images.)

For the first layer of fog, I choose a smooth brush at 60 pixels, set at 'dissolve' with 75% opacity and 47% flow.

Start your fog layer by randomly painting blobs of color.

For this image I used plain white, because I'm placing fog over a pink and white background and I want it to be light. For darker images, use darker grays. Or Experiment with colored fog. Blue fog is spooky, green fog is alien, red fog is dangerous'

Step 3 - Blur

Select Filter, choose Gaussian Blur. I start with a blur ratio of 3%.

Step 4 - Blur adjustments and options

A low Gaussian Blur percentage level will give less blur. A higher Gaussian Blur percentage gives a smoother, thinner look.

I like the effect of a low percentage reapplied several times, rather than a large percentage applied once.

(Note: To reapply the exact same level of blur percentage again, just click Filter, and your last used filter will default to the top selection of the Filter menu. You don't have to go through the whole menu selection process unless you want to change some of the settings from your last filter application.)

Step 5 - Opacity

If your fog looks too cottony, turn the Opacity of the layer down.

Want thicker fog? Add another layer of fog on top of the first for an uneven look. Fog is usually thicker closer to the ground. Paint some more blobs and apply the blur filter again.

Step 6 - Finishing Touches

The finished product over a pink and white background with the Render Clouds filter. (Filter > > Render > > Clouds)

Easy Soft Glow using Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Easy Soft Glow using Photoshop

Author: elizabyte

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Introduction

So that you can see what I'm working from, here's the original image. This is a Poser render, but you can try this technique with photographs and other images, as well.

Step 1 - Basic Technique

The way to make a selection based on luminance in Photoshop is by simultaneously holding down Ctrl-ALT-~ (on a Mac, use the COMMAND key rather than Ctrl). The ~ (tilda), if you're unfamiliar with it, is in the far upper left hand corner of most keyboards, on the number row.

If you've pressed the keys correctly, Photoshop should now be showing a selected area in the image. Put this selection on a new layer with Ctrl-J (or, if you prefer the menus, Layer: New: Layer via Copy).

You now have a layer based on the image's luminosity. Yay! But what can you do with it?

Step 2 - First Suggestion: Soft Light

Select the new layer you've created and from the menu choose Filter: Blur: Gaussian Blur. For this image, I chose a blur of 2.5. Obviously a bigger image will need a higher blur, and a smaller one a lower blur.

Set the blurred layer to Soft Light. Voila, softly enhanced image.

Step 3 - Second Suggestion: Blur

To try this one, make the previous layer you created and blurred invisible, and select the original image layer. Go through the selection process again (Ctrl-ALT-~ and Ctrl-J). Select the new layer. Blur the new layer as in the previous step, only this time, leave the layer on “Normal” blend mode.

This may look okay as is, depending on how much blur you used and the nature of the image, but in this case, her face is much too blurry, so I'm going to take my eraser tool and erase some of the blur layer around her face.

Note that you can always erase any part of the blurred layer that you want, and you can get some interesting effects that way.

Step 4 - Third Suggestion: Inner Glow

Don't blur this time, but instead, take advantage of Photoshop's layer styles (this will require Photoshop 5.5 or higher). Double click the new layer and add an Inner Glow effect. To get this golden wash, I chose a strong golden yellow color with a Screen blend mode (see settings image).

The result is to give the image an overall color “wash”, as you can see.

Step 5 - Final Thoughts

A luminance selection layer can be very versatile. Try experimenting with blurring, tweaking the color (for example, turning the saturation up or down), and blend modes, and don't forget you can always erase bits that are too blurry or too saturated. It's a highly useful technique that you may find you use for all kinds of effects.

Fur in Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Fur in Photoshop

Author: Firebirdz

Tools Needed

Photoshop
Mouse or Drawing Tablet (recommended)

Introduction

Ok, you have rendered your furry animal, yet the fur still looks smooth. How can you enhance the image to make it more furry without using plugins? Here are some simple steps to improve the fur effect through postwork and to even add “character” to your animal.

Step 1 - Duplicating the Layer

I rendered the DAZ HouseMouse in Poser but felt that the fur looked too smooth. I wanted to give this critter some character.

I first made a duplicate layer and saved the file. Always work with the duplicate layer so that you can go back to the original if you want to restart. Remember to save snapshots along the way in your History palette.

Step 2 - Pull out that Fur!

Using the Smudge Tool, I used the following settings: one pixel brush, mode set to Darken, Strength/Intensity between 90 - 98%.

I also made sure that shape dynamics and other dynamics was selected. (see image below)

I then proceeded to pull out the fur using brush strokes in the direction the fur is going out of the body.

Step 3 - Final Result

Here is the Final Result! Isn't he cute ?

Step 4 - Creating Fur on Clothes

You can use the same technique to create Pom Poms or Even Fur on Clothes.

Let's start with a simple pink slip dress and proceed to add fur to the chest area.

Step 5 - Using the Dodge Tool

I started with the Dodge tool with the following settings: one pixel brush, Range set to Highlights and Exposure set to 45%. I also made sure that shape dynamics and other dynamics were also selected.

Starting with the outer areas, I then brushed in the fur using fluid strokes in the direction the fur would go. I then worked my way towards the centre.

Using the Dodge tool at this point rather than the smudge tool is necessary when the colour of the area where you want to create fur is is about the same.

Step 6 - Fluffing using the Smudge Tool

I now switched to using the smudge tool using the following settings: two pixel brush, mode set to Normal, strength/intensity between 98 - 99%. Same thing, having shape and other dynaimcs selected.

I then started pulling out the fur again, starting from the outer areas and working my way towards the centre (this allows the fur in the centre to look like it is on top).

I repeated the process using a one pixel setting.

You can later improve on the fur using the burn tool (I usually set the exposure to 20% or less) and the dodge tool by further adding highlights or shading by brushing the fur.

Here is the result.

Giving Sunglasses Or Other Objects Simple Reflections In Adobe Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Giving Sunglasses Or Other Objects Simple Reflections In Adobe Photoshop

Author: rosemarkyn

Tools Needed

Adobe Photoshop

Support Files

Support_Files.zip

Introduction

Here is a simple way to give objects reflections, there are many ways this can be done, but I find this method quite attractive due to how simple it is.

All the images that I used are included in the support file, as well as a PDF version of this tutorial.

Step 1 - Open Images

1. Open your reflection image and your sunglasses image and drag the reflection picture onto the sunglasses image.

Step 2 - Free Transform The Reflection Image

2. With the reflection image layer selected use the free transform tool (Edit - > Transform - > Free Transform or Ctrl+t) and reduce the size on the reflection picture until it is roughly the same size as one the lenses of the sunglasses, Hit the 'enter' key when you are happy with your sizing.

Location of the free transform tool

Step 3 - Adjusting For The Curvature oF The Lenses

3. Because of the curvature of the lenses, the reflection will also need to be distorted. Drag your smaller picture to the center of your canvas and then apply a Spherize Filter (Filter - > Distort - > Spherize).

Location of Spherize Filter

I used the following settings:

Amount: 100%

Mode: Normal

Resize your reflection image to fit your lenses again.

Step 4 - Setting Up The Second Lens

4. Duplicate your reflection image, (Layer - > Duplicate Layer') and move the duplicate layer over the other lens.

Location of duplicate layer

Image with both reflections in place

Step 5 - Setting The Opacity

5. Reduce the opacity, (found in the Layers Palette) of both reflection layers till you can clearly see the sunglasses under them, I used a value of 15% for opacity.

Step 6 - Selecting The Lens

6. Now you need to select each of the lenses. You can do this using whatever selection tool works best for you. Since my lens is colored quite uniquely so I used the Magic Wand tool.

Step 7 - Layer Mask

7. Once your lens is selected, select the reflection layer that is over your selected lens, and click the Layer Mask button on the bottom of the layers palette.

Step 8 - The Second Lens

8. Steps 6 and 7 need to be repeated for the other lens.

Step 9 - Fine Tune

9. Fine tune any adjustments to the reflections opacity, (see step 5). You should finish up with a reflection similar to mine.

How to create fairie wings with photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

How to create fairie wings with photoshop

Author: Carole

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Introduction

You want to create your own wings, with a glowing effect, and you want to choose colours and shape of your wings ?

With this very easy tutorial you will learn to create shiny and colourful fairy wings with Photoshop.

Step 1 - Drawing the wings

Open a new document 500×500 px, and fill it with black.

Create a layer and draw your wings with the brush tool of 1 px large, with the color you choose for your future wings.

Step 2 - Create symmetrical wings

You do not need to draw the complete pair of wings, just draw one side, then select your wing, copy and paste.

Use the manual transformation tool, select the wings, choose “horizontal axis” and slide the layer to fit to the first wings.

flatten your wings (left and right) in order to obtain one pair a wing on the same layer.

Step 3 - Fill with color

Fill your wings with the color of your choice.

Step 4 - Make the wings "ethereal"

Play with opacity of layer with wings, I select 20% on my example.

Step 5 - Make them glowing

Open “layer option” and select “inner glow”, and then “outer glow”. Choose the right parameters to fit your tastes.

Step 6 - Adding shiny little stars

Create a new layer, and use the brush tool (smooth) and draw some small withe dots randomly upon the wings.

Apply an outer glow (choose the parameters you like) upon the dots layer.

Choose opacity and size, and don't hesitate to play with various combinations to get the perfect result.

Step 7 - More sparkles and glow

Repeat step six, changing the color and size of the new dots.

Apply an outer glow again, and play with opacity and size etc…(on my example I select a 50 % size for the outer glow)

Step 8 - Give an ethereal look to your fairy wings

In order to attenuate the outline of the wings, you may reduce the opacity a bit more, until you are satisfied.

And here it is! You now have a glowing pair of fairy wings !

You can play with shapes, colors, intensity of the glow, and you will obtain many different wings, always shiny and twinkling.

You may create the wings directly upon your rendered picture, adding layers, or you may create them apart from you render, and then add the result on your render.

Personally I find it easier to make them directly on the render, you can fit the wings exactly to your character.

Good luck !

How To Change the tone of any skin texture rescourse

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

How To Change the tone of any skin texture rescourse

Author: Autumn

Tools Needed

Adobe Photoshop
Merchant rescource skin kit Doesn't matter the shade

Introduction

In this tutorial I will show you how to change a skin tone from really pale to really dark. You'll know how to edit a rescource kit skin file to be a dark as you want or as light as you want with just a few clicks.

Step 1 - Setting up

Open the skin texture in photoshop (For our example we will be using a Victoria 4 face skin texture, specifically the Alpha Rescource kit 2 by Sarsa available at DAZ.)

Step 2 - Curve the colors

Go to the menu bar at the top of the screen and go to Layers, then new adjustment layer, then Curves. Click okay on the “New Layer” dialogue.

Name the action whatever you want and click “Record”.

Step 3 - Create Your action

Now begin your postwork. Everything you do will be recorded in the actions window. (Hint: You should always start with “Duplicate Layer” and end with “Flatten Image”.) When you are done, click “Stop Playing/Recording”.

Step 4 - All Done!

Your action is now saved and you can duplicate your own personal postwork technique again and again!

How to use Adams Art and Toon Actions in Photoshop Elements

2011-11-01T17:42:28+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

How to use Adams Art and Toon Actions in Photoshop Elements

Author:

Psycha

Tools Needed

* Adobe Photoshop Elements 1 2 or 3

* Adams Art Actions and/or Toon Actions

Introduction

I finally found out how to get Adams wonderful toon actions to work. I believe this will work with any actions premade for Photoshop 6, 7, CE but for the purpose of this tutorial I am only working with Adams Art and Toon Actions.

Step 1 - Creating Folders

Open the Effects folder (Photoshop elements-Previews-Effects) and Create a new folder called Toon Actions (Art Actions for those that are using the art one or both folders if you are going to use both)

Take the toon (art) actions that you purchased and unzip into their corresponding folder (that you just made)

Step 2 - Making display file

An important step, open elements and create a new file 64 pixels by 64 pixels, name it EXACTLY the same as the name of your action. Consider this a TN for your Actions.

Create an image you want to represent each action and save it as a .PSD file in the same folder as the action it is going to be a TN for.

Step 3 - Cache removal

Ok Most Important step Close PSE and take your cache folder (Photoshop Elements-Previews-Cache), yes the whole folder and trashcan it. Then empty the trash can. (Very important step to have elements recognize your new actions)

Step 4 - Location of newly found friends

Open Elements. It will recreate your cache folder now recognizing the actions you have just installed. You can find them in the 'Effects' tab.

Step 5 - Have fun!

Open the image you want to play with and use the effect you want.

I hope this helps people enjoy Adams wonderful actions!

Step 6 - Special notes and Credits

Note: the PSE that I have is Photoshop Elements 1.0.1. This tutorial should work for Elements Version 1-3 have not tested later versions.

*For every time you add a new action in this fashion you must delete your cache so that PSE can recognize the new Actions added.

*ATM there is a slight bug in the actions overlapping each other. If you Step backwards (control Z) once the action is done applying you should be able to get back to the action you want.

Thanks to www.hiddenelements.com for their assistance in this! And Much thanks to AdamWright!

Toon Actions is created by AdamWright and is sold at

Http://www.renderosity.com/mod/bcs/index.php?ViewProduct=48887

Art Actions is created by AdamWright and is sold at

Http://www.renderosity.com/mod/bcs/index.php?ViewProduct=49382

How to use Hair Brushes in Photoshop7

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

How to use Hair Brushes in Photoshop7

Author: Bobbie25

Tools Needed

Photoshop7

Support Files

The-Hair-Madness.zip

Step 1 - open your render

1 open your render my render mine is 1000 by 1027 and make a new layer Name that layer hair. I'm using a dark red color for this tutorial pick a nice hairbrush from the hair set you have bought or the one I have made.

I have made some for free you may download them at rendervisions.com in there free stuff.

The brush Mode is set to normal and the opacity is set to 100% I take my brush on the new layer and paint all the way passed the top of her head so it nicely covers from her eye brows up and a bit passed the top of her head now this will go off the sides of her head as well this is OK we will clean it up in a bit.

Step 2 - Painting with the hair brush

2 Now take the same brush down to about 29% opacity and pick a lighter color and paint on the new layer keep doing this till you have some nice highlights switching from color to color light to dark.

Step 3 - Dropping the opacity

3 Drop the opacity on the hair layer to 75% so you can see her head through the layer take the eraser tool mode brush opacity 100% with a round brush and clean the hair up around the head try not to erase to much you don't really want to see her head.

Step 4 - Clean up

4 Put the opacity back to 100% in the hair layer making sure you did not erase too much hair from the sides and top.

Step 5 - Duplicate the background

5 I now want the hair to flow behind her so I duplicate the background layer and take the magic wand tool and set it to tolerance 1% this will outline her I hit delete it will take out all the background and let me paint hair behind her I add a new layer and name it I pull that layer between the to background layers.

Step 6 - Learn the free transform

6 I now can start to paint the hair behind her I do this the same way I did the bangs starting with my base color then moving to a lower opacity moving from light to dark colors to bring out highlights once I have one side I like I duplicate that layer and go to edit transform and flip horizontal.

Step 7 - Learn the free transform tool 2

7 I now go to free transform and rotate the hair a bit till the top can not bee seen this gives the look of a ponytail I do this on both layers.

Step 8 - Work behind the image

8 I add a little bit of wavy hair to the layers behind her on a low opacity just to add a bit of a feel to the hair.

Step 9 - More feel to the hair

9 I add a new layer on top to add more feel to the hair I make the brush a bit larger but I paint in the same way as be for starting with my base color then moving to a lower opacity moving from light to dark colors to bring out highlights.

Step 10 - Clean up and post

10 Add a new layer and I use the same brush just a bit smaller and right hand side brush most of the brushes have a left and right side I paint in the same way as be for starting with my base color then moving to a lower opacity moving from light to dark colors to bring out highlights.

I now take the background copy layer and take the blur tool mode normal opacity 76% and blur only the edges of her face to blend the face into the hair a bit.

And now you can post your image.

Introduction to Photographic Post Production in Adobe Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Introduction to Photographic Post Production in Adobe Photoshop

Author: Syyd

Tools Needed

Poser 4
Adobe Photoshop or comparable image-editing software

Step 1 - The Final Post-Produced Render

Post-production work on digital images, in software such as Adobe Photoshop, is often frowned upon by the Poser community. This is something I could never fathom. Why anyone would want to publicly show an image that is marred by rendering flaws is well beyond the scope of my vision! :)

In this tutorial, I will show you some of the techniques I use to make Photo-realistic images. The image to the right is the finished work to which I have added a simple sepia tone to.

I refer to Photoshop throughout the tutorial but you could use almost any graphics manipulation software such as Paintshop Pro.

Step 2 - The Original Poser Render

Pose and render a head and shoulders portrait figure in Poser.

Try not to pose the figure “Head On”. Twist the body slightly and turn the head back to face the camera.

Make sure to render this against total black. Save the finished render as a TIF file. This is very important as you will be using the included Alpha channel in Photoshop.

(Poser Arcana Technical Note: An alpha-channel will also be made when the render is saved as a Photoshop [.PSD] file.)

Load your Poser render into Photoshop.

Step 3 - Alpha Selection

In the “File” menu, go to “Select/Load Selection”. In the drop-down menu that appears, select and load the “Alpha1” selection. This will create a moving dotted line all around your figure.

In the “File” menu, go to “Edit/Copy” and again to “Edit/Paste”. This will create another layer that just contains the figure and a clear transparent background. This will be called “Layer 1”.

Select the Background layer from the Layers palette by clicking on it. It will turn blue. This means that it is the selected active layer.

In the file menu go to “Edit/Fill” and in the drop down menu select black. This will fill the background layer with black.

Step 4 - Alpha 2 Selection

Click on Layer 1 to select it and reload the Alpha 1 selection as described above. Now go to “Select/Modify/Contract” in the File menu and in the numerical box, type 10. This will bring the selection 10 pixels closer into the figure.

In the “Select/Feather” option in the file menu, type 20. This will smooth the selection and graduate any effects that we use so as they are not harsh and noticeable.

In the “Select” menu, choose “Inverse”. This will invert the selection so that any applied effects will only be applied outside and along the edge of the figure in your portrait.

In the “Select” menu, save the selection. Give it a name something like “Alpha 2”.

Now would be a good time to save your image as a .PSD file. A .PSD file will save all your layers and selections.

Step 5 - Add the Background

Choose a suitable image that you would like to use as a background. Think “Photographic Studio”. I chose a texture map for a pair of denim jeans that I had laying around my hard drive.

In the “Filters” menu choose “Gaussian Blur” and set it to about 8.6. This setting really depends on the image you chose. You want it to be blurred but have some detail to show a “Backdrop” effect.

It really doesn't matter how big or small the image you choose is as the blur will take any pixelisation out of the image after it has been resized.

This background image has to be placed behind the layer that contains the portrait of your figure.

Step 6 - Blur the Edges

Next, select Layer 1 or the layer that contains your cutout figure.

Reload the selection that you saved called “Alpha 2”.

In the “Filter” menu select “Gausian Blur” at a setting of about 4.5. This will blur the edge of the hair and the body giving the effect of camera 'Depth of Field' and blending the figure into the background.

Step 7 - Create Selections

Create two oval selections in the marked area on the image to the left and feather them by 10 pixels.

Step 8 - Depth of Field

Add a “Gaussian Blur” of 4.5 to the oval selections.

Blurring the shoulders gives the photographic effect called “Depth of Field”. In this image, the virtual camera is focused on the face. Using “Depth of Field” one shoulder would be closer to the camera and one would be further away thus making them out of focus. This is a very desirable effect in photography.

Step 9 - Background Lighting

For the final touches, select the layer that contains the background and add one of Photoshop's lights, found in the “Filters/Render/Lighting Effects” plug-in. For this effect, I used one spotlight with an intensity of 24 and a focus of 21 causing it to render soft.

If you wish you can add a slight sepia tone by desaturating the image and colorizing it.

Save your image as a .PSD.

Making a space scene using Adobe Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Making a space scene using Adobe Photoshop

Author: B-knox

Tools Needed

Basic knowledge of Adobe Photoshop 7 or higher
(optional) a wacom

Step 1 - Size

First off we're going to make a document 640×480. You can do this by clicking on the file menu, and clicking new, or Ctrl+N. On the preset drop down menu select the 640×480 menu option.

Step 2 - Stars

To begin the stars you have to create a new layer,

The next step in this process is filling in the empty layer with black, press D on the keyboard, click on the layer and press ALT+DELETE on the keyboard

To continue, you will have to add noise to layer 1, you can do this by clicking on the menu Filter > Noise > Add Noise

Inside the “Add Noise” window, check the monochromatic setting at the bottom, also mark the Gaussian as the type of distribution. Furthermore, the amount should be set to 20%

The next step in the process is creating the actual star field. Now we will use the brightness and contrast, click on the menu Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast. When inside the Brightness/Contrast window set the brightness to -100 and the contrast to +80

And now you have a basic star field.

Step 3 - The Sun

To create the sun you have to, create a new layer, select the Brush tool, B on the keyboard, press X on the keyboard to switch your foreground and background colors, change the brush size to 150 by left clicking anywhere on the canvas and using the scrollbar under master diameter and click where you wish the sun to be on your canvas

For now that simple star will suffice, but there are ways to create a more detailed star

You image should look like this now:

Step 4 - The Nebula

Creating is by far the hardest part of a space scene, considering there is no real way to teach you how to create a nebula I will run through it with you, leaving some room for you to elaborate as you please. I will also be using a Wacom tablet for this step. It is not required to make this step, but helps a lot.

For this step I will first create a strip of brown color with a low opacity using the brush.

And then I'll use the smudge tool and create distortions through the strip. I will also use the dodge, and burn tool through to create a feel of shadows.

To create the texture I just simply used the overlay settings in the drop down menu directly under the Layer tab, and pasted the texture into that layer which, in turn created the shadows and highlights inside the nebula

Step 5 - The Planet

The second most complex step in this process, and yet the most important in a space scene, is the planet. For this tutorial I'll run you through a simple planet style.

Fist you should create a new document with the dimensions of 1000×1000. Create a new layer, and then select the elliptical marquee tool, and then while holding shift on the keyboard down drag the mouse to create a perfect circle and fill with the hexagonal value of #AA6000:

Next select the layer with the circle in it and click on the blending options in the bottom corner of the layer panel

When in the layer style menu, add these settings to the window

Step 6 - The Planet Texture

This step is as simple as finding your favorite texture and adding it to the planet. First you will have to add a new layer to the document and change the layer style to screen in the drop down menu under the layer tab.

Next, you will have to select a simple texture, I just used the one I used for my nebula, and go into your brush settings and check texture, and choose your favorite texture. Then select layer one by Ctrl+clicking on the layer in the layer panel and then go into layer 2 and add brush your texture onto the layer and mess around with your properties a little bit. When you're finished editing the planet texture go to the menu Filter > Distort > Spherize and push the lever up to 100%

Finally, create a new layer group and place all the layers into it

And then duplicate the group and merge the duplicate together. After doing select everything, Ctrl+A and go into your space scene, and paste the planet. And then using the scale option, Ctrl+T, you can scale the planet down to the size you wish it to be.

This is the final image.

Make A Stark Black and White Image In Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Make A Stark Black and White Image In Photoshop

Author: Amber

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Introduction

In this tutorial I will show you how to make a stark black and white image in Photoshop.

Step 1 - Starting Out

I started with a simple image rendered in Poser using the !True Globals from DAZ Complex Global Lighting Pack 1. Open the image in Photoshop and duplicate your current layer. Then click on Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and set it to 15, click OK.

Set this layer to Layer > Overlay. Flatten your image.

Step 2 - Change The Color

Go to Image > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation. Set Hue to -77 and Saturation to -24 and Lightness to -11.

Step 3 - Halftone Pattern

Duplicate your layer.

Set your foreground color to #302924 and your background color to #FFFFFF.

Go to Filter > Sketch > Halftone Pattern. Leave it at the default which should be Size:1, Contrast:5, Pattern Type: Dot.

Step 4 - Blur It!

Go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and set it at 15, click OK.

Set this layer to Layer > Overlay and flatten your image.

Step 5 - Duplicate and Screen

Duplicate your layer.

Set this to Layer > Screen with an Opacity of 88% and flatten your image.

Step 6 - Greyscale

Go to Image > Mode > Grayscale.

Duplicate this layer and set it to Overlay. Flatten your image.

Step 7 - Blur It Again!

Duplicate your layer.

Go to Filer > Blur > Gaussian Blur and set it at 40, click OK.

Set your layer to Overlay with an opacity of 35%.

Step 8 - All Done!

Flatten your image and save and you're all done!

Paint a feather boa in photoshop 7

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Paint a feather boa in photoshop 7

Author:

Bobbie25

Tools Needed

Photoshop7
Poser

Introduction

Post production on a 3D render. This tutorial will show you how to paint a feather boa in Photoshop 7.

Step 1 - OPEN YOUR 3D RENDER IN PHOTOSHOP

I open my render. This render was done in poser 4 propack

The render is 1693 by 1519 300 dpi with a home made 3 point light. The pose is Olivia Poses by Webdancer at renderosity.com free stuff. The brush we will be using is the fuzzball brush in photoshop7 .

The first thing we will do is duplicate the image and make it a new layer. This layer we will take the magic wand and delete all the background color so we will only have the lady in the new layer .

Now that we have a layer with just the lady in it we will duplicate this layer. Now go to layer and make a new layer and name this layer. I have named mine B. I will now place this layer between the two lady layers. This is done so I may paint the boa behind her.

Step 2 - FREEFORM PEN TOOL

I take the freeform pen tool. Make sure you have a nice color and the fuzzball brush for when you right click and hit the stroke path and brush with the freeform pen tool. This will paint the boa behind her.

Step 3 - DUPLICATE THE BOA LAYER

Now I will duplicate the boa layer and place it in front of the top lady layer. Take the burn tool with the fuzzball brush and burn to darken the middle of the boa, then use the dodge tool to Lighten the edges

Step 4 - NOW I WILL CLEAN UP

Now I will clean up the boa copy layer so I can see the parts of her body and face that I like. I will once again use dodge and burn tool to highlight the boa. I have taken the eraser tool to clean up some of the boa and the fuzzball brush to repaint

Step 5 - FUZZBALL BRUSH TO REPAINT

Now to clean up the boa some more and add some feel to it.

Using the fuzzball brush, I repainted some of the edges I had to delete around the boa.

Step 6 - COPY TO OVERLAY

I now duplicate the lady layer and set the copy to overlay to get a soft red glow to the lady. I used the filter blur and Gaussian blur to soften up the hard edges of the render.

Step 7 - MERGE VISIBLE

7. I now merge visible and sign my name and the image is done. I hope you enjoy this and have a good day.

Step 8 - YOU'RE DONE

I hope you like this fast tutorial on postwork this is what the image looks like when its all done

Painting a Quick and Easy Rope in Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Painting a Quick and Easy Rope in Photoshop

Author: kaleya3D

Tools Needed

* Photoshop

* A tablet or mouse

Step 1: Preparing to Paint the Rope

First choose the image you want to add your rope to and open it in Photoshop. I chose a render of a horse that I want to paint a rope halter on. I will be using this image for the tutorial.

Step 2: Painting the Rope

From your brushes palette choose a hard round brush of an appropriate dimension to paint the shape of your rope. I used a 30pixel hard round brush for my halter. In your brush presets settings turn shape dynamics off for best results. See attached image.

Choose a light to medium brown color from your paint palette. You may choose any color you wish for your rope but for this tutorial I was attempting to create a natural looking rope and so chose medium brown.

Create a new layer to paint your rope on. We do not want to paint on our main image in case we mess up and need to start over.

Using your brush, paint in the general shape that you want your rope to take. In my example I have painted the shape of a halter around my horse.

Step 3: Adding Definition to the Rope

From your tools palette choose the burn tool. In the brushes Palette choose a very small hard, round brush appropriate to your rope size. I chose a 5pixel brush. Set your burn settings to Shadows, 5%. In your brush presets check shape dynamics on.

Using the burn brush paint in shadows on your rope in a spiral shape to simulate the twisted braiding of the rope as seen in image 2. Do this over the whole rope trying to keep the shadows evenly spaced.

Step 4: Adding Highlights to the Rope

Choose the dodge tool from your tool palette. Choose a hard, round brush approximately 10 pixels smaller than the brush you used to paint the rope. I chose a 20 pixel hard, round brush. Turn shape dynamics off in the Brush Presets Palette.

Set your dodge settings to Highlights, 4%. Use your dodge brush and paint over the center area of the rope in between the shadows that you created earlier with the burn brush. Do this to give your rope a slightly rounded appearance. If you find you have over-dodged you can go to edit > fade dodge tool and lower the amount of dodging.

Step 5: Adding shadows

Once again choose your burn tool from the tools palette. This time we will be using a hard round brush approximately one third the size of the brush you used to paint your rope. I used a 12 pixel hard round brush in my example. Set the burn tool to shadows, 5%.

Using the burn tool gently burn around the outer edges of the rope. You may need to play with the settings a bit to achieve your desired results. I find that between 3 and 5 % works best for me. If you find your shadows are too dark you can use edit > fade burn tool to decrease them.

Step 6: Finishing up

For the final step go to filter > noise > add noise. Use the following settings ( refer to the image if you are uncertain )

Gaussian

Monochromatic

Apply this filter to your rope. There you have it. A quick and easy rope for your images.

Step 7: Finished image

Here is what the rope should look like.

Quick grass with Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Quick grass with Photoshop

Author: Corinne

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Introduction

This image doesn't look credible without anything on the first plan, and without any integration of the character into the background. Sometimes adding grass on the floor is a little trick that works. Here's how to paint grass easily and quickly with Photoshop.

Step 1 - File preparation

When you create your image, be sure you work with layers - having your character(s) on seperated layers helps for lots of postwork operations (hair painting, glowing effects on character, etc) because you work behind it without messing your whole render. With this tutorial, we will be creating two layers, one behind and one before our character.We will call them “grass 1” for the one on the top, and “grass 2” for the one on the bottom.

Step 2 - Photoshop' grass brushes

Photoshop as a neat selection of predefined brushes : there are two already existing ones for grass.

Select your brush tool

In the brush options, select the first one for grass, like shown in the screenshot

Choose the size that corresponds better to your image.

Step 3 - Painting

I usually take two colors that are similar : one lighter and one darker, but in a very subtle manner. I also tend to pick the colors directly from the background of my image.

So with this brush we will be sketching a bit of grass on the “grass 1” layer, on the character. Don't do too much, you can always add later.

For more realism, don't hesitate to take smaller brushes also.

Then, go on your “grass 2” layer, the one behind your character, and do the same.

Step 4 - Correcting

The colors aren't exctly what we were looking for - the grass needs more merging with the background.

To search for the right color, you can use the “Hue and Saturation” (Image > Settings > Hue and Saturation), and you will have to apply the same settings on both layers. Don't check the “Redefine” option.

The I use the “Brightness and Contrast” tool.

Play with the settings until you find what you were looking for.

… that's it !

Quickie morphs in Photoshop cs

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Quickie morphs in Photoshop cs

Author: ironsun

Tools Needed

Rendered image
Photoshop with liquefy filter

Introduction

Sometimes trying to get that exact appearance to figure using morph dials doesn't lead to the wanted solution. You got the most of the face to look like what you wanted but there is still some things missing. And with some models like Don here, there just isn't enough morphs to give him that special feel. I've one tip to share how to turn him or any other to totally something different. All you need is Rendered image and Photoshop with the Liquefy filter.

Step 1 - The Render

All right, let's begin! Here is Don straight from poser. I've saved it in PNG format to have it on transparent layer making future adjustments easier. I tweaked his dials a bit to outline the features that I'm thinking to do. Those slightly pointed ears suggest that I'm moving towards some elvish type of guy.

This step is also good point to clean up image correcting pokethroughs, oddly shaped joints and so on. I've to correct only that pesky white dot on Don's right eye lid. And then is the time to..

Step 2 - Liquefy

Select Filters- > Liquefy.

Your image will appear in new window with different kinds of tools and sliders. We'll be focusing on circled

In circle 1 first tool is Forward warp that is the tool which will be used as the “morph tool”. Second one in the circle is Reconstruct tool that reverts the effect of the warp tool. Meaning that if you do something that you don't like, use reconstruct to go back to the original image.

In circle 2 is sliders to adjust size and pressure of the tools. If you need more subtle and small effects, lower the sliders and when in need of extreme shapes, increase them.

Step 3 - Cat Guy Don

Look! Don has new ears!

By using warp tool in size 49 and pressure 64, I pulled the ears farther away. And using smaller brush, I pushed some parts of the ears to create some dents. Maybe he is some kind of warrior…

And notice how nicely original texture stretches into new shapes. With Don's default morphs this would be impossible to do!

Step 4 - Rest of the face

By following general shapes of Don's face, I begin carefully morph/warp his features. Use large brush size to morph larger areas and smaller to change details like eyes and mouth. To change eyes' size and shape use large brush with low pressure and stroke gently eyelid upwards or downward depending on your taste and needs. With low pressure changes to eye blends more better to rest of the face.

And if something doesn't look the way you like, just use reconstruct tool undo changes and morph again.

Step 5 - Final touch ups

Don't look now something that he's never looked like! I've added Don the Cat Guy some battle scars and a background. I made some modifications to his eyes to make him look more mysterious. He is still bald but I'm planning to give him some flowing hair to be proud of in next tutorial, so check back for more fun!

I hope that you liked this different approach to morphing characters. If you have any comments or suggestions, please feel free to email me :)

We'll be seeing Cat Guy Don again in my Thick Flowing Hair tutorial. Until then, enjoy!

Realistic Slime in Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Realistic Slime in Photoshop

Author: Nalif

Support Files

Slime.zip

Introduction

You've just finished an awsome scene with tons of cool aliens in it, but they just don't look slimey enough? Then this tutorial is for you. This is an easy method that you can use to create slime, and best of all, you can use any of your existing brushes for it!

Step 1 - Creating the style

For this tutorial, we'll be creating a photoshop style that will turn brush strokes into slime. To start with, open up a blank image with a transparent background. Once you have your blank image, double click on layer1 to bring up the layer style dialog. Once open, check the following boxes.

Step 2 - Adjusting the Drop Shadow settings

Now that you have the main features for the style checked, it's time to fine tune them to give us the slime-look. Here are the settings for Drop Shadow.

Step 3 - Adjusting the Inner Shadow settings

Enter the following values into the Inner Shadows tab. Make sure you set the blend mode to overlay.

Step 4 - Adjusting the Inner Glow settings

Enter the following values into the Inner Glow tab.

Step 5 - Bevel and Emboss

These are the settings you'll enter for the Bevel and Emboss tab.

Step 6 - Color Overlay

And finally, the values for the color overlay. The color is purely up to you, but I find that this color works very well. Of course, if your going to be using this for dripping water instead of slime, the color shown won't work.

Step 7 - Using your style

You are now done with your style. The only thing left to do is to draw some slime, and apply the style to it. To do this, create a new layer. Leave it transparent. Use the brush tool, and draw drips in flat black like so:

Once you have your basic outline, simply click on the style located in the styles swatch, and you should have your slime like so:

Step 8 - Stand back and be amazed at your art

With this technique you can do slime quickly and easily. I used this technique to do the slime you see in this picture. As a final step, you may want to add a blur to the slime. In the above picture I used a blur more filter.

I hope this tutorial helped you. Go now, and fill your galleries with lots of slime and be happy.

Simple Water Reflections In Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Simple Water Reflections In Photoshop

Author: Amber

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Introduction

In this tutorial I will teach you how to make an image look as though it's reflecting off the water.

This tutorial has been written by using Photoshop 7, some differences may appear with the tools if you have a lower version.

Step 1 - Starting Out

I started out with a simple render from Poser, and opened it up in Photoshop.

Step 2 - Selection and Copying

Then using your Selection Tool select an area down the middle of the person. This can vary depending on how much of the person you wish to show as being out of the water.

Then go to File > New > Edit > Paste

Your cut selection will now be a separate image.

Step 3 - Flipping The Image

Othis new image go to

Image > Rotate Canvas > Flip Canvas Vertical.

This will turn the image upside down.

Now go to Select > All Edit > Copy and on your original image go to Edit > Paste

Step 4 - The Clone Stamp

Click on your Clone Stamp Tool and the bottom layer of your image. After choosing the area you wish to clone, make a new layer above your second layer and start cloning over that layer. Make sure that the bottom half gets covered completly.

Step 5 - Layer Properties

On the third layer change the layer opacity so that just a bit of the second layer is showing. And there you have it! A reflection in water.

Step 6 - Final Touches

I cut my image so that there wasn't anything extra on the left hand side, fiddled around in Photoshop and changed some lighting and I was all done.

Snowcloning using Poser and Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Snowcloning using Poser and Photoshop

Author: SnowSultan

Tools Needed

Poser
Photoshop

Introduction

Hi, and thanks for reading this tutorial. This procedure may be familiar to the more experienced Poser artists, but I consider it to be THE most useful of all Poser-related postwork techniques. I call it “snowcloning”, but when used as shown in this tutorial, no actual cloning is required. It's still easier than saying “multi-render composition” though. ;)

The first four pages explain the most basic snowcloning and shows what it can be used for. The remaining two pages show a slightly more complicated example of this technique in action.

To start off, we will be using the image above. It's a Victoria 3 figure with Kozaburo's updo ponytail and a Second Skin texture by Lisa Buckalew available here at DAZ. It looks good as is, but I think I'd like to eliminate the fishnet mesh and expose her stomach. The next step will show what you'll need to do first while you're still in Poser.

Step 1 - Preparing your Renders

To be able to snowclone this image and get the results we want, we need to make two renders. The first will be dressed, and includes the fishnet mesh that we want to get rid of. We'll also make a nude render, shown above.

DO NOT change your lighting, pose, camera angle, shadows, or anything else between renders! Just render the one with clothes, get rid of the clothes, and render again. Don't change the size of the render window either. Save them however you wish, but I would recommend saving as TIFFs or PSDs (Photoshop format) if possible. Not only does that format not compress and damage your picture like JPGs, but it also saves an Alpha channel (mask) of your scene. These channels can be very useful for merging figures with other elements in postwork.

Before closing Poser, make sure that both renders are exactly the same height and width. I have occasionally seen two identical renders with one being one pixel longer or wider than the other, and this can cause big problems when it's time to combine them.

Step 2 - Not so hard!

I'm using Photoshop for this example, but you can use your favorite program as long as it supports layers (or cloning). Choose Select - > All and Cut the nude render to the Clipboard. Now open the clothed render and paste the nude one into it on a new layer. Once both renders are in the same document, you can perform snowcloning in one of several ways.

- The easy way

Choose the nude layer and select Layer - > Add Layer Mask… - > Hide All. The nude layer will disappear. Now choose a brush and white as your color. Wherever you paint, the skin will reappear! Paint over the abdomen area to replace the fishnet mesh with bare skin. If you accidently paint skin where you don't want it, change your brush to black and paint over the mistakes. When a Layer Mask (Hide All in this case) is applied, white paint will reveal the layer and black paint will hide it. If you apply a Layer Mask normally (Show All), white will hide the layer and black will reveal it.

- The tedious way

Choose the Eraser tool and delete all of the nude render except the abdomen. Lower the opacity of the nude layer so that you can see the clothed image underneath while you work.

- The slow, difficult way

Use the Rubber Stamp/cloning tool to copy the stomach area of the nude render to the clothed one. This was the original technique I used (hence the name “snowcloning”), but it is much more time-consuming than necessary if you have a program that can handle layers.

Regardless of which way you choose, it shouldn't take too long to replace the figure's midsection and avoid having to edit the original texture or make a transparency map.

Step 3 - Having fun

, it's hard to resist going wild and creating stuff like this when all you have to do is paint with black or white. :) Next, we'll try combining three renders to make an original outfit.

Step 4 - Combining from Multiple Renders

We used three of the Second Skin MAT textures (red leather, black leather, and blue jeans) and a nude figure to create the three renders shown above. Save them all and open them in your paint program.

In this example, we're going to once again get rid of the fishnet mesh on her stomach, but we will be combining parts of the two clothed renders to create an original top afterwards. Repeat the steps we did before to replace the fishnet mesh with her skin, and then paste the red leather render into the image as a new Layer. We'll then be ready to start getting creative. :)

Step 5 - Finishing up

After just a few minutes of painting, we're done. Look at the images above and you'll see what parts of each layer were made visible. The Background is the clothed render with the blue jeans. Layer 2 is the nude layer, and uses a Layer Mask to only reveal her stomach. A Layer Mask was also applied to Layer 1, and we painted on the mask in white to show parts of the red leather texture. Since each element is on it's own Layer and is using a Layer Mask, you can go back and edit them at any time.

Please remember that if you create a new Layer Mask using Show All (the default method), the layer will be completely visible and painting in black will SHOW the layer while white hides it. I used Hide All on these Layer Masks so we could paint the outfits on instead of hiding what parts of them we didn't need.

There's no right or wrong way to snowclone, just remember to make renders that contain everything that you might want to add in the final image. It's a simple method of postwork that can help you be a lot more creative and productive. :)

If you have any questions about this tutorial, feel free to send me a message either here on the DAZ forums or on Renderosity. Please visit my homepage for more tutorials and free Poser items too! Thanks very much, take care.

SnowS

Hoping his pictures are worth 1001 words.

My homepage

Using overlay in Photoshop to create neat light effects

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Using overlay in Photoshop to create neat light effects

Author: Firebirdz

Tools Needed

Poser
Photoshop

Support Files

Image_Files.zip

Introduction

Here is a simple Tutorial on how to use the Overlay Feature in Photoshop to create some cool light effects without having to set up complicated Light setups in Poser.

Step 1 - Overlaying Layers

The image below shows the final result of what a few layers in Photoshop, set to Overlay, can achieve. The Overlay Mode was used to create this candlelight effect.

Step 2 - Rendering using Different Lights

I rendered three images here. Image A is rendered using 3 spotlights in Poser that just focus on the face. Image B is the same model but rendered using several Backlights. You can use any other light setting but the best effects are usually achieved when the render is darker.

Image C is the same model sporting a different texture but I used the same lights as in Image A.

Using the Eraser Tool, I erased part of the face in Image C. I wanted to create an image where part of the face was non-human. I worked with one of those round brushes with feathered edges and set the opacity to 50%. The result is shown in Image D.

I've included Images A, B and C in the attachment so you can try this for yourself.

Step 3 - Combining and Sandwiching the images

I used Image A as the base (Background Image) and placed Image B on top of it. The best way to position the image so that it is exactly on top of the background image is to use the arrow keys. The image will shift one pixel at a time.

I then decreased the opacity of the top layer until I was satisfied. This creates some depth to the image that is hard to achieve with normal renders. I usually set the opacity to between 50 to 80% depending on the effect I wish to achieve.

I then duplicated the bottom layer and placed the duplicated layer on the top, thus 'sandwiching' the layer with Image B. I then set the duplicated layer to Overlay. (Opacity was kept at 100%)

The image above shows the result of this step.

Step 4 - Piling the overlays

I then proceeded to duplicate the top Overlay layer twice and adjusted the opacity of the layers until was satisfied with the intensity of colour that it achieved. You can do this as many times as you like depending on how intense you want the image to look. i found that two additional layers were sufficient here.

In the image below, the first Overlay layer was left at 100% opacity whilst the other two were adjusted to between 20 - 40% opacity.

Step 5 - Inserting more overlays

At this stage, I brought in the image with the scaly skin (Image D). I inserted it as a layer below the Overlay Layers. I duplicated the layer. Both layers were set to Normal and 100% Opacity. Of course, you can adjust the opacity depending on the intensity of the texture you want to achieve. (Layers named “Scales A” and “Scales B” in the Image below)

I then duplicated “Scales B” and set that layer to Overlay and decreased the opacity to 80%

Step 6 - Final Result

This is the final result. Try it now using the attached files!

Working with Layers in Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Working with Layers in Photoshop

Author: digitell

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Support Files

Layers.zip

Introduction

In this tutorial you will learn step by step instructions on how to work with layers using Adobe Photoshop. You can easily alter areas of an image without affecting other areas! Layers are wonderful!

Step 1 - Viewing layers pallet

You want to open the image you are going to be working with. This is you Base/Background layer. This layer should always remain on the bottom of all other layers. One you have opened your image, we are ready to begin.

Make sure you can view your layers pallet. Click on 'Windows > Layers'.

Step 2 - Add new layer

Now you want to create a new layer, so when you work with this element, you won't bother your base layer.

Click on the icon which is located next to your trash can. You will now have a new layer

Located on top of your base layer.

Step 3 - Painting onto new layer

With you new top layer active, you can now paint your base hair. No part of the bottom layer is bothered at all! Layers are wonderful!

Step 4 - Add another layer

Now after your base hair is painted, create another layer by clicking on your layer icon at the bottom of your layers pallet as you did in the previous step. Second layer now appears on top. You can now add another lock of hair.

Step 5 - Working on new layer

Paint your second lock of hair. It is a individual element now, so is your bottom base layer of hair, and your background/base image.

Step 6 - Creating additional layers

Clicking on the new layer icon again, you can now add an additional lock of hair. It is on its own layer now also and can be edited without bothering the other layers.

Step 7 - Adding to the layers

I add yet another layer and this time I change the color to be a little lighter than the others, so to add highlights. (you didn't know this was going to also be a hair painting tutorial, did you!) This is what is great about layers, you can use your dodge tool if you want to make it lighter or darken it with your burn tool, and it won't bother the rest of your hair layers.

Step 8 - Arranging layers

You can click and drag layers on your layers pallet. This way you can move elements to be top or on bottom of other elements. Just click on a layer and hold down, then drag to on top or below other layers on the pallet.

If you want to link layers to one another, you can do that by clicking on the square area beside the eye icon. Then when you move one element on your art board, the layer linked to it will move also.

If you are not happy at all with a layer, you can drag it to the trash can, or click on it and hit “delete”.

Everything else will stay the same.

Step 9 - Linking layers and adding effects

As you can see if you move your hair on the artboard now all the layers stay connected and move together as one. (I only moved the hair to show what happens!)

Now, with one of the layers selected, you can apply a drop shadow if you wish. Click on the little icon with the'f' at the bottom of your layers pallet. You drop down menu appears. Choose 'drop shadow' . There are many other effects you can use on your layers here too. But for this we will use drop shadow. Sometimes I apply drop shadows to my hair, not always.

Step 10 - Merging the linked layers

When you are done with creating layers, you can merge all of them into one layer. Click on Layers at the top on the menu, then choose 'Merge Linked'. You will now be back to having 2 layers, your background base image and a top layer.

Step 11 - Flattening image and saving file

You now can save this as a PSD file. Flatten the image and save as a jpg for uploading into your Gallery!

Or..If you are not happy with this hair layer, drag it to the trash and start all over..this is what I have done many times!! :)

This concludes the Working With Layers tutorial.

I hope this helps you.

Have Fun!!

Flesh to Water - Blending Textures Using Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Flesh to Water - Blending Textures Using Photoshop

Author: Robin Wood

Tools Needed

Poser 4
Photoshop
Bryce or comparable

Support Files

Introduction

The figure in all these examples is Victoria by DAZ3D (formerly Zygote.) The clothing is all from her first clothing pack. The map for Victoria is my Millie Natural Texture. Her clothing maps are ones I made, with examples of my prints on them. Her hair in the final two pictures is Kozaburo's Ponytail. The diamond is from 3D Lapidary using the diamond texture from Bryce Gemstone Presets made by Jelisa (Darlisa and Jessica.)

Step 1 - Set Up the Model

First, set up your figure, pose and so on in Poser and export to Bryce as an OBJ file, as usual. (If you don't know how to do that, I have a tutorial that explains it.)

Compose the picture and render in Bryce as you would ordinarily do, making no attempt to make the arm anything but flesh. Export the image as a Photoshop file.

Then select the figure, and hide everything else by clicking on the Solo Mode button in the Selection Palette. Everything else will disappear.

Now, if you look at your figure, you will find that there is a list of letters and numbers and things. It's usually to the right, but that can vary depending on where the figure is on the screen. The top one is A, the bottom should be U. Click on U to ungroup the group.

The bottom one should change to G. If it doesn't, keep clicking on U until it does. (Unless, of course, you know what is grouped, and none of the part you want to change belongs to any group.)

If you are changing just part of the figure, as I am doing with the arm in this example, use the Director's View to move around until just that part is isolated against the background. Draw a marquee around that part with the selection tool to select it. If there are bits that didn't get selected, select them by either holding down the shift key and clicking on them, or holding down shift and control (on both platforms) and clicking on the correct part from the list that pops up.

When you have the part that you are going to change selected, click on the A to get the Attributes dialog box. At the top is a place for the name, which should be blank since several things have been selected here. Below that is a row of checkboxes. The first one is Neutral, and should be checked. The next is Positive. Click on the Positive box to choose it and unchoose Neutral. Then click on the check mark at the bottom to close the box.

Now click on the G at the bottom of the list to group the part. You will notice that the bounding box has diagonal lines at the corners. If you want to make the next step easier, you can click on A again and name the group.

If you changed just part of the figure, select the whole thing and click G again to group it.

Step 2 - The Boolean

What you have just done is made a Boolean Union object out of your figure. It's necessary to do this if you are blending with a transparent material, because there are a lot of joints and messy things inside Poser figures, especially clothed ones, which show up if you make the figure transparent. A Boolean Union is all one piece, not a bunch of pieces, so all the joints and things disappear, leaving a smooth and seamless piece of water (or glass, or whatever.) I've shown the difference in the examples above. (Note that this doesn't always work for heads or some conformable clothing, for some reason. You may still have to set the nostrils, inside mouth, etc. to be transparent.)

The bounding box with the diagonal lines signals that there is a boolean operation here.

Now go to the flippy triangle to the right of the Family Selection icon on the Selection Palette, and click on it to get the popup menu. Go to Select Groups and select the group you have changed. Click on the M to go to the Materials Editor, and assign the material you want for your transformation. In this case, I chose clear water. (I removed the bump, though, and gave it an Ambient setting of 7 because the magic water has a bit of a glow.)

Exit the Material Editor and save the file with another name, (Save As…, ) in case you need to go back to the other shading later. (You can't have too many backups.)

Render it, and export the image again.

Step 3 - Render the Pieces

At this point, you may find that the picture is no longer working; for instance, you may decide that there is not enough contrast between the arm and the water, or something like that. If you like, you can fuss with things until they are right. Then render, export the image, open the file with the other material (in this case, the flesh) that you previously saved, and copy and paste the figure into the new lighting (deleting the water figure.) As long as you haven't moved the figure at all, it will be in exactly the same place. Render again, so the two match perfectly. (See why you have to keep the first file intact?)

Assuming that it all looks good, select the changed part if it isn't already selected, and go to the left part of the Main Interface. There are a bunch of flippy triangles there. The one on the bottom lets you choose the kind of image you are making. Set it for Mask Render, and let 'er rip.

You will get a mask with just the silhouette of the object you have selected in white against a black ground. Export this one, too.

Move to Photoshop. Open the first image, and save it with a new name. Now open the second image, and arrange the two windows on your desktop so you can see both. Click on the “v” key, or select the “move” tool, and click anywhere on the second image. Hold down the shift key, and drag the mouse over the first image. The second image will appear as a layer of the first, correctly positioned just where it was in its own image. (This works for all layers of all images, by the way. It works best if the images are exactly the same size, or were once.)

Open the Channels palette, and make a new layer. Open the mask render, select all, copy, and paste it into the new channels layer on your composite image.

Now you have both images, with the water one on top of the flesh one, and an alpha mask ready to use.

Step 4 - Move to Photoshop

Open the first image, and save it with a new name. Now open the second image, and arrange the two windows on your desktop so you can see both. Press the v key, or select the move tool, and click anywhere on the second image. Hold down the shift key, and drag the mouse over the first image. The second image will appear as a layer of the first, correctly positioned just where it was in its own image. (This works for all layers of all images, by the way. It works best if the images are exactly the same size, or were once.)

Open the Channels Palette, and make a new layer. Open the mask render, select all, copy, and paste it into the new channels layer on your composite image.

Now you have both images, with the water one on top of the flesh one, and an alpha mask ready to use.

Select the water layer by clicking its name in the Layers Palette. (Unless you have renamed it, it will be Layer 1) Now hold down option/alt and click on the mask icon at the bottom to make a new mask that is filled with black. This hides the entire layer.

Now choose a brush, flip white to the foreground, and start painting your water arm into the flesh arm. The advantage of doing this as a mask, and not by erasing the layer, is that you can go back and forth between the water and the flesh at will. Make the transition look organic by painting in streaks, leaving tatters of untouched flesh. Streaks that are flame shaped will give that elusive sense of motion, because we are used to seeing flame shaped things moving very quickly.

Step 5 - Check mask

Check your mask by holding down option/alt and clicking on the mask thumbnail in the Layers Palette. This will let you know if you have really gotten the clear area as clear as it can be.

To get a magic glow around the whole arm (or whatever you have changed) make a new layer by clicking on the New icon at the bottom of the Layers Palette.

Then go to Select - Load Selection… and choose the Alpha Mask (or whatever you named the mask when you pasted it in.) You may have to invert it, depending on how you have set Photoshop up. What you want is marching ants around the arm and around the border of your picture. If they are just around the arm, go to the Select menu and chose Invert.

Type Command/Ctrl H to hide the Marching Ants so they don't distract you.

Use the Airbrush tool with a light color to make areas of light. I have made streaks that leap from her hand to her shoulder to give the impression of the magic moving very quickly in that direction.

Change the opacity of the layer to get the effect that you want.

For the streaks of magic running up her arm, I outlined the changing parts with the Airbrush and a bright cyan, and then made three copies of that layer. The first copy I filtered with a Gaussian Blur, and cut the opacity to 78%.

Step 6 - Opacity

For the second copy I cut the opacity to 42 using the Dissolve blending method from the popup at the top of the layer menu. This gave me single pixel dots, but they were too bright. So I made an empty layer below it, and chose Merge Down from the flippy triangle at the top right of the Layers Palette. That gave me a layer with just the pixels, but one which I could blur and change the opacity settings for, which I did. (Occasionally, when you try this, the merged layers will be set at the opacity of the Dissolved layer, and will behave as if you are using the Dissolve blending method even when you aren't. If this happens to you, use the History Palette to go back to before you merged the layers and hide all the other layers by clicking on the eyes, so that only these two layers are showing. Then select Merge Visible and the merged layer will behave correctly.)

For the third copy, I held down the Command/Ctrl key and clicked on the layer thumbnail to select just the non-transparent pixels on that layer. Then I went to the Select menu and chose Modify… Contract. I contracted the selection by 4 pixels, and filled the resulting area with white. That gave me the bright part of the glow.

Next, I painted the remaining tatters of flesh on the back side of the arm. Since it's transparent, you would be able to see these, and putting some in adds to the realism and the 3D effect. Obviously, you won't have to do this is the arm is turning to stone, or something else that is solid.

I used the same techniques as before to make magic glows for them, and pulled all the layers under the first set of magic glows so they would be in back.

Then I used some brushes I made with light effects to get the final layers of sparkles.

Step 7 - Done

And that's it!

Play with it until it looks the way you want it, and don't be afraid to really pile the layers up. If everything is on separate layers, you have much more flexibility, and can correct anything that seems overdone (or underdone!) easily.

Don't forget to allow for transparency in the shadow or in any reflections, while you are doing all this. The transparent shadows and reflections will be there in that second layer. Just use the mask to make them appear where you need them on the picture. It's that sort of thing that will make the arm really look like it's turning to water, even when the viewer isn't aware that they are seeing that shadow at all. Most of what we do is meant to hit the viewer at a visceral level, anyway.

The same method can be used to make a model fade from any substance into any other, as you can see here, no matter what was used to render it.

And you don't have to do all the post work with the magic glows and sparkles unless you think it will add to the picture.

Just remember to have fun with it!

Step 8 - Wrap Up

To summarize the tutorial:

The technique uses two renders, one of each texture, stacked in Photoshop with a mask to blend the layers seamlessly.

Just set your model up as usual in Bryce (or whatever rendering program you are using, ) and render with normal flesh. Change whatever parts are going to be changed to the new material, but nothing else at all, and render again. Make a mask render too, if you think you might want it later.

Open the first render in Photoshop, and save as… Then open the second render and drag it onto the first while holding down the shift key to get a perfect alignment between the two layers. Copy and paste the mask into a new Channel in the Channels Palette if you made one.

Back in the Layers palette, make the second layer active and get a reverse mask for it by holding down the option/alt key and clicking on the mask icon. Then all you have to do is paint into the mask with white to make anything you want visible! And there it is; perfectly blended textures.

Add magic glitz or anything else you want to add in post render, and you are done.

Creating a simple bar code

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Creating a simple bar code

Author: ironsun

Introduction

Bar codes are fun to do! Follow these easy steps and be bar code maker master in no time.

I have used Photoshop CS to make this tutorial but I think that you can use any paint program that you want.

Step 1 - Setting the base

Create new document in any size and shape that you want and make sure that background is set to white. I have used 250×150 pixel sized pic in this example.

With rectangular marquee choose area for the lines. You may want to leave some free space in bottom of the picture for additional longer lines and text.

Step 2 - Making the lines

Enable rulers from View- > Rulers ang drag a guideline from left side where you want the first line to be. Load photoshop's basic square brushes and choose one that suits your needs.

Create new layer and press shift and left click on guideline on upper side. Keep shift pressed down and left click on the same line below the selection. A perfectly straig line is created.

Press control down and drag guide line to right. Repeat making lines to fill the picture.

To get the bar code look right, use different sized brushes to create variance. Leave couple places empty for longer lines that comes in next step.

Step 3 - Extra enchantment

This is how my bar code looks at now. It is ready to use crisp piece of work but it need some details to make it look even better.

Extend the marquee selection to cover almost all of the picture. Drag guideline to one of the bigger empty places and add a line to it.

Grap you typing tool, choose any font you like and write some text and numbers in the empty spaces.

And you're done! Simply created bar code to use in anywhere you like.

Suggestions? Comments?

ironsunn@hotmail.com

How to create a starry sky

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

How to create a starry sky

Author: Carole

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Introduction

With this tutorial you will learn to create you beautiful night sky, with stars, black holes, and nebula.

Step 1 - Sky and stars

Open a document about 500×500 with a black background.

Choose the airbrush tool, and use alternately 1px, 5 px and 9 px.

Use a layer for each size.

You should have 3 layers with 3 sizes of dots.

Step 2 - Add a glowing effect

Now you are to apply some effects on each layer.

You need to add a outer glow on layer, try to vary the opacity and the size of the glow, to give an impression of depth to your sky.

Step 3 - Nebula

Once you've done all the layers (you may add as layers as you wish, I use only three to be easier)add a layer between the other ones.

Apply the clouds filter (with white as foreground color, and black as background color)

Step 4 - Add depth

With a big airbrush, of about 50% opacity (you may vary the opacity to fit your taste)erase the clouds here and there.

With a bigger opacity (70% or more) you may give more depth to the sky.

Step 5 - Weird sky and black holes

Here it is !

Now you have your starry sky !

I tried to be as simple as I could, but you may add as layer as you like, alternating layer with stars with layer with clouds, and play with them to approach what you have in mind, and add depth or weirdness to you sky.

If you want to give a weird appearance to your sky, like an alien sky or very far one, you should add a difference clouds to your clouds layers.

Repeat it until you are satisfied.

You will notice that difference clouds may create some black holes among the clouds.

Step 6 - Add colors

By playing with color balance you may add colors to you sky.

If you want to add more than one color, you should work on each cloud layer separately, copy and paste the layer on a new transparent background, and then choose your balance color.

Repeat this step for the other cloud layer, changing the color each time.

Once you've done with each layer, copy and paste them on your sky (remove the old cloud layers)

Now you should have a beautiful starry sky, with nebulas and some black holes.

Enjoy !

Sewing Seams with Photoshop CS

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Sewing Seams with Photoshop CS

Author: karanta

Tools Needed

Photoshop CS

Support Files

Jeans_Seamless.zip

Introduction

This tutorial was made with the German Photoshop CS version. But I included a lot of screenshots and I hope you can follow this tutorial with Photoshop versions in other languages.

Step 1 - Start

Step 2 - Continue

Step 3 - Continue

Step 4 - Continue

Step 5 - Continue

Step 6 - Continue

Step 7 - Continue

Step 8 - Continue

Step 9 - Continue

Step 10 - Continue

Step 11 - Continue

Step 12 - Have Fun :)

Simple Photo Touch Up

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Simple Photo Touch Up

Author: LunaL

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Introduction

This tutorial is to show you a fast and simple way to give images those quick touch ups that make the photo stand out.

Step 1 - Adjustments

IMAGE > ADJUSTMENTS > AUTO CONTRAST

IMAGE > ADJUSTMENTS > HUE / SATURATION

Step 2 - Settings1

and use these settings >

IMAGE > ADJUSTMENTS > CURVES

settings >

Step 3 - Blur

your image should look something like this >

Duplicate the layer

FILTERS > BLUR > GAUSSIAN BLUR : 4 pixels

Set duplicated layer mode to OVERLAY

Step 4 - Merge

Set layer opacity to 50%

LAYER > MERGE LAYERS

and you are done!!

here is the before and after picture

Structure Brushes for Photoshop CS

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Structure Brushes for Photoshop CS

Author: karanta

Tools Needed

Photoshop CS

Support Files

DazTutorialBrushesKaranta.zip

Introduction

This tutorial was made with the German Photoshop CS version. I included a lot of screenshots and hope you'll be able to follow it with Photoshop versions in other languages.

Step 1 - Start

Step 2 - Continue

Step 3 - Continue

Step 4 - Continue

Step 5 - Continue

Step 6 - Continue

Step 7 - Continue

Step 8 - Continue

Step 9 - Continue

Step 10 - Continue

Step 11 - Continue

Step 12 - Continue

Step 13 - Last Step

Window Lighting Effects

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Window Lighting Effects

Author: LunaL

Tools Needed

Photoshop

Introduction

With this tutorial we are going to learn how to add special lighting effects to windows of a dark room. This particular technique can be used in various different situations.

Step 1 - One

To begin, open your document that you wish to add these effect to. We will use this scene for this tutorial.

Step 2 - Two

Create a new layer on top of your current document

Step 3 - Three

Prepare your image for lighting by using a soft brush to “dot” in window areas using a white color (#FFFFFF). For this tutorial we used a 45px soft brush for the smaller windows, and 100px soft brush for the larger windows. Set your brush opacity to about 80%.

Step 4 - Four

Once that has been completed, switch to your smudge tool.

Step 5 - Five

Set your smudge tool size settings to suite the sizes used in step 2 in your Windows > Brushes menu. You need not select any of the other options. Set your smudge tool brush opacity to about 80%

Step 6 - Six

Now begin to smudge your window “dots” at a downward angle to give it the lighting effect. Repeat this for all of the windows. You may have to do this several times until you get something that you like.

Step 7 - Seven

Now set your layer that was used for the lighting to about 50% opacity or something that you like.

Create a new layer, and with a soft brush at about 80% opacity, brush the areas on the ground below the lighting, to reflect the lighting coming through the windows.

Once this is done, set that layer to about 60% opacity, or whatever you like.

A Guide to Basic Photo Editing with Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

A Guide to Basic Photo Editing with Photoshop

Author: OniDrEvil

Tools Needed

Adobe Photoshop CS (or later version)

Tutorial Link

http://hubpages.com/hub/A-Guide-to-Basic-Photo-Editing-with-Photoshop

Description

This tutorial is designed as a crash course in image editing. I introduce the user to helpful tools such as brightness/contrast, color balance, dodge/burn, and blur/sharpen, just to name a few. No prior experience with Photoshop is required. This tutorial is hosted offsite and can be found at the link above.

Sample Image

http://s2.hubimg.com/u/2199073.jpg

How to Make it Rain with Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:29+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

How to Make it Rain with Photoshop

Author: OniDrEvil

Tools Needed

Adobe Photoshop CS (or later version)

Tutorial Link

http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Make-it-Rain-with-Photoshop

Description

Rain is a beautiful thing. It can create a sense of relaxation, danger or mystery, so it is only natural to use it as a tool for artwork and photographs. In this tutorial, I give you the easy steps to create a rain effect using only the default tools in Photoshop. This tutorial is hosted offsite and can be found at the link above.

Sample Image

http://s3.hubimg.com/u/2208642.jpg

How to Design a Logo

2011-11-01T17:42:30+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

How to Design a Logo

Author: OniDrEvil

Tools Needed

Adobe Photoshop CS (or later version)

Tutorial Link

http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Design-a-Logo

Description

Whether you're a graphic designer for fun, or for professional reasons, chances are you'll need to create logos on a semi-regular basis. If you're unfamiliar with these little visual signatures, this tutorial is for you. I cover both the brainstorming process and methods for creation. This tutorial is hosted offsite and can be found at the link above.

Sample Image

http://s4.hubimg.com/u/3667435.jpg

How to Make Desktop Wallpapers out of Small Images

2011-11-01T17:42:30+00:00

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How to Make Desktop Wallpapers out of Small Images

Author: OniDrEvil

Tools Needed

Adobe Photoshop CS (or later version)
A small image

Tutorial Link

Description

If you've ever tried to make a desktop wallpaper, chances are you've run into this problem. The image you want to use is too small for your desktop and becomes distorted and ugly when you apply it. Fear not, because I've spent years looking for solutions to this problem. In Part 1 I help you figure out your desktop resolution as well as methods like framing and blending. In Part 2 I go further, teaching you how to extend the edges of the picture and accommodate things like desktop icons, widgets and the task bar. Some experience with Photoshop is required. These tutorials are hosted offsite and can be found at the links above.

Sample Image

How to Turn Yourself Into a Superhero With Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:30+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

How to Turn Yourself Into a Superhero With Photoshop

Author: OniDrEvil

Tools Needed

Adobe Photoshop CS (or later version)
A photograph of yourself
A photograph of your favorite Superhero

Tutorial Link

http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Turn-Yourself-into-a-Superhero-with-Photoshop

Description

Sure, you could spend loads of money on an elaborate costume, but why do that when you can just Photoshop yourself into a superhero? Using only default tools, I show you how you can take a picture of yourself and graft your head onto a superhero's body. I also address some methods to help refine your picture and avoid the look of obviously faked images. This tutorial is hosted offsite and can be found at the link above.

Sample Image

http://s2.hubimg.com/u/2242113.jpg

How to Draw Clothing with Photoshop

2011-11-01T17:42:30+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

How to Draw Clothing with Photoshop

Author: OniDrEvil

Tools Needed

Adobe Photoshop CS (or later version)
Completed Render, Illustration or Photograph

Tutorial Link

http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Draw-Clothing-with-Photoshop

Description

This tutorial focuses on the post-production technique of drawing clothing. It is one method, of which I am sure there are many, that uses primarily the brush tool and the dodge/burn tool to achieve the proper shape and shading effect. It is a great technique for renders completed in DAZ Studio or Poser, but can also be used with photographs and illustrations as well. This tutorial is hosted offsite and can be found at the link above.

Sample Image

http://s1.hubimg.com/u/2671676.jpg

How to Make Your Own Graphic Novel

2011-11-01T17:42:30+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

How to Make Your Own Graphic Novel

Author: OniDrEvil

Tools Needed

Adobe Photoshop CS (or later version)
Illustrations or Renders

Tutorial Link

http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Make-Your-Own-Graphic-Novel

Description

Creating your own graphic novel is not as hard as it might sound. If you have a method of creating the art, whether it be drawing, rendering or photographing, then you're already halfway there. In this tutorial I show you how to get your storyboard under way and methods to compile your work. This tutorial is hosted offsite and can be found at the link above.

Sample Image

http://s4.hubimg.com/u/2489243.jpg

Photoshop Tutorials

2011-11-01T17:42:30+00:00

This page exists within the Old ArtZone Wiki section of this site. Read the information presented on the linked page to better understand the significance of this fact.

Photoshop Tutorials

DAZ 3D encourages you to upload your tutorials here to the ArtZone Wiki so that they have a permanent home and are hosted on our servers. If you do upload your tutorials, please add them to the appropriate software category and create sub-pages/categories as needed. If, for some reason, you do not want to host your tutorials here, please add links to external tutorials in the appropriate categories as well.